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Model Forum / General / Rockets / June 2007Cutting fins on a router table
Anybody here ever use a router with a flush trim bit, to cut fins from a plywood template? I would like to hear your techniques. I'm trying to make a large quantity of complex fin shapes, and I think this might be the way to go. > Anybody here ever use a router with a flush trim bit, to cut > fins from a plywood template? I would like to hear your > techniques. I'm trying to make a large quantity of complex > fin shapes, and I think this might be the way to go. It would be best if you had a steel template and could fasten your blanks to it. Use a flush bit preferably with a bearing. Tom >> Anybody here ever use a router with a flush trim bit, to cut >> fins from a plywood template? I would like to hear your [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Tom I agree with Tom. Make up one template, fasten it (nail or small screw) it to a sheet of material you wish to make the fins out of and use a top bearing cutter router bit. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5411 and you can make thousands provided you don't lose the template. Good luck. Chuck >> Anybody here ever use a router with a flush trim bit, to cut >> fins from a plywood template? I would like to hear your [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Tom I agree with Tom. Make up one template, fasten it (nail or small screw) it to a sheet of material you wish to make the fins out of and use a top bearing cutter router bit. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5411 and you can make thousands provided you don't lose the template. To use a router table (having the router suspended inverted under the table-not the fancy smancy program driven table) you would have to cut every piece on a table/skill saw first then trim them on the table, a two step process and possibly having more waste. Good luck. Chuck Tom/Chuck - thanks for the replies. I have a flush trim router bit with the bearing above the cutter. So I think what I'll do, is make a plywood template the shape of the fin, screw/glue a couple of knobs (he said KNOB!) or cabinet handles to it for grips, then glue a spacer piece to the underside to compensate for the gap between the bearing and the cutter. Then stick some 80-grit sandpaper to the bottom of the spacer, to grip the workpiece (or maybe use some pointed brads.) > Tom/Chuck - thanks for the replies. I have a flush trim router bit > with the bearing above the cutter. So I think what I'll do, is make [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > sandpaper to the bottom of the spacer, to grip the workpiece (or > maybe use some pointed brads.) There should be no gap between the bearing and the cutter, that's why its called a flush cutter. Tom >> Tom/Chuck - thanks for the replies. I have a flush trim router bit >> with the bearing above the cutter. So I think what I'll do, is make [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Tom Agreed.....it is a flush bit......we use them for churches and high end offices and some really bizarre millwork.....once it's been run there is no difference in size, they are exact......as far as depth just drop a 1/4" plywood scrap to keep you from routing your work bench...until you've made your last pass the piece will not move (though I can understand putting a piece of sandpaper in between) after you get the touch. Just freeze and hit the OFF button and all will be well. It's all just a touch of practice. Chuck > There should be no gap between the bearing and the cutter, that's why its called a flush cutter. Not the diameter, no - I was referring to the vertical distance between the bearing and the cutting blade. "Eekamouse" <eek@amouse.not> wrote in news:O9-dnS- _PJFOhvLbnZ2dnUVZ_jWdnZ2d@adelphia.com: > Anybody here ever use a router with a flush trim bit, to cut > fins from a plywood template? I would like to hear your > techniques. I'm trying to make a large quantity of complex > fin shapes, and I think this might be the way to go. As described in prior messages, you can use *either* a table ans end- bearing bit or a top bearing/collar. With either method you can cut single fins or multiples at one time. Two other ways that do not require a solid template are a duplicarver (or similar machine), or a duplicating pantograph. With one of these, you can work from a flat drawing. |
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