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Epoxy removal from quantum tube

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tdstr - 06 Aug 2007 17:45 GMT
Warning: glue removal thread :)

In the process of going through my crash-n-burn box of rockets I found a
number of quantum tubed rockets that need rebuilding.

One of these relics was my L1 PML Quasar built with the Bob Smith epoxy.
   Anyone have have any ideas on a good way of removing that epoxy
without trashing the quantum tube?

Ted Novak
TRA#5512
IEAS#75
J.A. Michel - 06 Aug 2007 21:45 GMT
> Warning: glue removal thread :)
>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> TRA#5512
> IEAS#75

Ahh, scrounging the C&B box-'o'-goodies for usable stuff!  Cool! ;-)
If it were mine, I'd use a sanding drum and dremel-type tool to grind the
Epoxy down.  I have a little battery-powered Craftsman rotary tool, and
that's
what I would use.

It goes 5,000 RPM on 'low' and 10,000 on 'high'.  I find it much easier
to use than a Dremel in delicate situations where you want tweak something
and don't need
speed or raw power.  I had to ruin a couple of items with the Dremel before
I learned that sometimes
it's just too fast and powerful, and can remove too much material too
quickly.

I'd think a Dremel would work well for you.  Hold it steady and go slow.  If
you have the better Dremel
that you can change the speed on, (I have the cheap-one speed model) then
start on a slower speed.

HTH,

Joe Michel
NAR 82797 L2
Jim Yanik - 06 Aug 2007 23:07 GMT
>> Warning: glue removal thread :)
>>
[quoted text clipped - 32 lines]
> Joe Michel
> NAR 82797 L2

For my old single speed model 270 Dremel,I made a speed controller using a
incandescent lamp dimmer,a duplex receptacle,and a plastic electrical box
to contain them.You can also use it to lower the temp on a soldering
iron.(or dim a lamp!)

It works great.

Signature

Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

W. E. Fred Wallace - 07 Aug 2007 02:47 GMT
> For my old single speed model 270 Dremel,I made a speed controller using a
> incandescent lamp dimmer,a duplex receptacle,and a plastic electrical box
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> at
> kua.net

I made a speed control from an old electric sewing machine foot speed
control and a double wall electrical wall outlet box assembly, wired in
series. While it will not work all that great controling soldering iron
temperature, it allows speed control of a Dremel Tool, 0 to max rpm.

Fred
W. E. Fred Wallace - 06 Aug 2007 21:54 GMT
> Warning: glue removal thread :)
>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> TRA#5512
> IEAS#75

Ted,

Beings the normal bonding of epoxy to plastic is mechanical in nature,
the strength of the bond is, for the most part, dependent on the
prep/surface roughing done to the plastic/quantom tube, prior to the
gluing process.

This is the process I use to attempt removal of mechanically bonded
epoxy glue joints: Use a high speed dremel tool and cut-off wheel to hog
out as much of the epoxy, without cutting into the plastic. If the speed
is high enough, heat will be generated and may cause the glue joint bond
to soften and weaken, allowing the epoxy to be pealed from the glue
joint with some degree of difficulty. If that process fails to work,
your only hope is to keep cutting on the glue, to the point you know you
are getting to close to the plastic, then stop and see if the glue joint
will break using a little brute force, scrape off the remaining glue
with a utility/hobby knife, and/or carefully use sand paper to remove
the remaining epoxy.

Sometimes, if it's just a drop of epoxy on an unprepared surface, you
can just pop it off with a sharp utility/hobby knife.

In reality, there aint no fool proof or easy way to git-r-done.  (:-)

Fred
tai fu - 07 Aug 2007 05:07 GMT
How about using Eldorado solutions? they can dissolve epoxy...

Or a heat gun... oh wait you might warp the QT...

Signature

TAI FU

> Warning: glue removal thread :)
>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> TRA#5512
> IEAS#75
Phil Stein - 07 Aug 2007 19:07 GMT
I use course sand paper & a dremel.

Phil

>Warning: glue removal thread :)
>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>TRA#5512
>IEAS#75
Jim Yanik - 08 Aug 2007 01:49 GMT
> I use course sand paper & a dremel.
>
> Phil

The sintered carbide sanding collars work great,clean up easily.
Plus a couple of carbide burrs.

Signature

Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Tater - 08 Aug 2007 03:45 GMT
> Warning: glue removal thread :)
>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> TRA#5512
> IEAS#75

heh, all your replies are forgettign something.

sand off the paint. a couple of days under a good UV lamp will do the
trick
moonglow - 08 Aug 2007 04:13 GMT
>> Warning: glue removal thread :)
>>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> sand off the paint. a couple of days under a good UV lamp will do the
> trick

Now if I could find a good UV lamp that would fit inside the BT it would
be great.  That's where the bulk of the epoxy is.

Ted Novak
TRA#5512
IEAS#75
Phil Stein - 08 Aug 2007 15:00 GMT
>heh, all your replies are forgettign something.
>
>sand off the paint. a couple of days under a good UV lamp will do the
>trick

What happens then?
Tater - 12 Aug 2007 20:11 GMT
> >heh, all your replies are forgettign something.
>
> >sand off the paint. a couple of days under a good UV lamp will do the
> >trick
>
> What happens then?

epoxy degrades
Phil Stein - 12 Aug 2007 20:31 GMT
>> >heh, all your replies are forgettign something.
>>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
>epoxy degrades

Can you be more specific?  I'm wondering if it is easily chipped,
becomes brittle  or turns gummy or what.

Thanks
the notorious t-e-d - 12 Aug 2007 23:00 GMT
>>>> heh, all your replies are forgettign something.
>>>> sand off the paint. a couple of days under a good UV lamp will do the
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> Thanks

Yeah, this could be some pretty valuable and handy info.

Ted Novak
TRA#5512
IEAS#75
Tater - 15 Aug 2007 02:31 GMT
On Aug 12, 2:31 pm, Phil Stein <PSt...@ArielSystems.spamsks.net>
wrote:

> >> >heh, all your replies are forgettign something.
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> Thanks

not sure, as I havent had it happen to mine, but fellow club members.
one used epoxy to bond his shock cord to his nosecone and also to fix
noseweight. ended up in a tree over the winter. in spring we found it,
with no traces of epoxy found. another did the same with a motor mount
with similar results.

trying to determine the cause of this led us to study some epoxy
manuals, and as far as we can tell, the UV from being in the outdoors
for months caused the epoxy to degrade.
Jim Yanik - 15 Aug 2007 03:25 GMT
> On Aug 12, 2:31 pm, Phil Stein <PSt...@ArielSystems.spamsks.net>
> wrote:
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
> manuals, and as far as we can tell, the UV from being in the outdoors
> for months caused the epoxy to degrade.

I poured some leftover RAKA boat-building epoxy(no fillers) on a wood shelf
on my outdoor grill,and it is exposed to Florida's sun daily,and it
"degraded"(it's not clear or translucent anymore),but it has not
disappeared in more than two years. In fact,it has preserved the wood,while
the uncovered wood around it has begin to disappear.

AFAIK,RAKA epoxy needs a UV protecting coat of paint or varnish,it is not
UV resistant on it's own.

Signature

Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Tater - 17 Aug 2007 00:37 GMT
> >> >> What happens then?
>
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
> AFAIK,RAKA epoxy needs a UV protecting coat of paint or varnish,it is not
> UV resistant on it's own.

hmmmmm. all I can say is  that an estes pheonix nose cone with epoxy
noseweight lost its epoxy over a wisconsin winter while hanging in a
tree.

maybe tree-dwelling vermin needed cured epoxy for something?

P.S. the yellow wood glue holding the shock cord to the body tube was
still intact
David Erbas-White - 17 Aug 2007 02:05 GMT
> hmmmmm. all I can say is  that an estes pheonix nose cone with epoxy
> noseweight lost its epoxy over a wisconsin winter while hanging in a
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> P.S. the yellow wood glue holding the shock cord to the body tube was
> still intact

Run for the hills!!!  A glue thread!!!!

David Erbas-White
Phil Stein - 16 Aug 2007 01:22 GMT
>On Aug 12, 2:31 pm, Phil Stein <PSt...@ArielSystems.spamsks.net>
>wrote:
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>manuals, and as far as we can tell, the UV from being in the outdoors
>for months caused the epoxy to degrade.

Interesting - Thanks
 
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