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Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Air Models / June 2004



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Electric Conversion

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Vaughn - 28 Jun 2004 10:12 GMT
OK there are lots of very good models out there which require, or are
designed for electric motors.

What I want to know is there an easy calculation which can convert IC, to
electric?

I know Motoclac will do some of this, but without buying the model,
building, and then weighing all model, and gear how do you use motoclac, as
this information is required?

Is there a way of converting IC power to electric motor size, and battery
usage?

Any help given most gratefully appreciated.

PS I know many out there will insist the best is Electric, or IC, but the
field where I fly I am only allowed to use electric, so this is why I wish
to get a conversion. I also understand that flight times may be very much
depreciated as fuel tanks lose weight as they get empty, where batteries
remain heavy.

Again thanks for any help given.

Vaughn
tom gaskin - 28 Jun 2004 12:02 GMT
Vaughn,
Go to www.ezonemag.com  and have a search on their discussion forum - most
models have been 'electrified' at one time or the other!

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Regards,
Tom Gaskin
This message has been checked using Norton Antivirus

> OK there are lots of very good models out there which require, or are
> designed for electric motors.
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>
> Vaughn
Chris - 28 Jun 2004 22:54 GMT
> OK there are lots of very good models out there which require, or are
> designed for electric motors.
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>
> Vaughn

The easiest way is to buy an established electric model. If you fancy
gliders then you can get 20 to 40 mins flight depending on lift from a
2000 nicad. Getting a model out of lift is as exciting as flying
aerobatics. You can have vertical climbs without too much expense.

The faster the model you want and the bigger and the more duration you
want the more it will cost. You'll need big brushless motors driving big
efficient props driven from expensive lithium batteries.

There are some very nice models around £50 like the twinstar and the
twinjet. People like puffin models will give you good advice on anything
electric.

Chris John
The Natural Philosopher - 29 Jun 2004 01:46 GMT
> OK there are lots of very good models out there which require, or are
> designed for electric motors.
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>
> Vaughn

Yep. Assume 100W input for every .010 Cu In.

If you can stand teh cost, use LIPO cells.

For smalish stuff on 3ss LIPO here is a toughh chart

0.010=speed 180
0.020=speed 300
0.049=speed 400
0.10-0.15=speed 480
0.20-0.25=speed 600.
©olin - 29 Jun 2004 06:10 GMT
> > OK there are lots of very good models out there which require, or are
> > designed for electric motors.
[quoted text clipped - 32 lines]
> 0.10-0.15=speed 480
> 0.20-0.25=speed 600.

Very useful information, but I am very confused with all the different
brushless motors that are now available.
I am interested in the Model Motors AXI series, and wonder how they would
relate to the above table?

Colin
The Natural Philosopher - 30 Jun 2004 09:12 GMT
>>>OK there are lots of very good models out there which require, or are
>>>designed for electric motors.
[quoted text clipped - 55 lines]
>  I am interested in the Model Motors AXI series, and wonder how they would
> relate to the above table?

Go to the model motors web site and look at typical power draws, and use
the power conversion stuff taking 1bhp=750watts=.40 cu in as a rough guide.

The bigger axi 41 series - are .40 motor equivalent, the 2820 are in the
400 watt area,  and that equates to roughly .25-.36 sort of capacity.
The smallest 2808 is something like an 049.

Another way to get this all working is to calculate all up weight and go
for the old watts per lb rule.

Roughly 50 watts per pound will get you 'vintage' style flying. 100
watts per pound is first class sport flying, 150W per pound will net you
either hovering and 3d, *or* in excess of three times stall speed
velocities (bit not both on the same set-up) and is up there with decent
lightweight glo engines, but to match the sort of tuned racing IC
engines you need to go up over 200W/lb, which is just doable. We
reckoned a 200mph electric plane was just doable, but would be around a
thousand quid to build.

Finally, its very possible to run a motor effectively at many power
levels, so don't be misled into thinking 'this motor will be as good as
that I C engine'

In reality the power pack - especially in Nickel based - will be a far
more critical and heavy item.

Finally, its often possible by judicious tuning of pro motor and gearbox
and pack to extract a performance from an electric plane that would
simply not work on an IC plane. IC engines like to be in the 8-20K RPM
band, Electric motors like to be in the 10-50K RPM band. Propellors can
vary from just a few thousand RPM for a steep climbing but slow model,
to maybe 20K for an out an out racer. So gearboxes are almost mandatory
on many electric motors that don't peak until well into 30K rpm or more.

Once you have a box, you might as well go for optimum prop RPM, which
for a typical sport model tends to be between 5k and 15kRPM

On an IC engine the tendency would be to go for a much larger capacity 4
stroke swinging a prop that doesn't really let the motor develop full
power, but does have bags of low speed thrust.

Other differences between electric and IC are that IC throttles rather
badly, but electric - especially brushed - throttles down to extremely
low RPM, and all electric can be stopped and restarted in flight too.

Electric motors don't in general speed up as much as the prop unloads
either. This may mean that a combination that spins the same prop at the
same speed on the ground, may be slower in top speed than the IC
equivalent in flight.

Which is to say, its very hard to exactly duplicate IC performance
curves in electric models. In some ways you will be pleasantly
surprised, in other ways potentially disappointed.
The other aspect is the cost aspect. The lowest cost IC model tends to
be around 25-40 size, whereas the lowest cost electrics tend to be in
the 049-25 sort of size: To get a 40 type plane in the air is usually a
couple of hundred quid in power train for best performance. Whereas I am
getting very good sort of 15 sized plane with exhilarating performance
from a power train costing about £80. (cheap motor expensive batteries)

Down at 049 sorts of levels I can do well on a 25 quid pack of LIPOS, a
20 quid speed controller and a £5 motor with an £8 gearbox. Not sure how
that compares with a RC 049 engine, mount,  tank, and throttle servo,
but the fuel is cheap :=)

> Colin
©olin - 30 Jun 2004 10:09 GMT
> >>Yep. Assume 100W input for every .010 Cu In.
> >>
[quoted text clipped - 77 lines]
> that compares with a RC 049 engine, mount,  tank, and throttle servo,
> but the fuel is cheap :=)

Thanks TNP, food for thought - as always

Colin
 
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