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How can I charge a 12V Car Battery?

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junk1@davidbevan.co.uk - 25 Jun 2005 10:01 GMT
This may sound a bit of a silly question, but currently I use one of
the small 12V 7Ah sealed lead acid batteries to charge my lipos with
(via a lipo charger) - but I only get about 3 charges before the 12V
has dropped too far.

...so the obvious solution is to buy a 12v car battery (about 70Ah).

The question is; will I be able to charge the 12V car battery with the
same charger that I use to charge the 12V sealed lead acid?

As I understand it a car battery is just a lead acid battery? So same
technology and same voltage just higher Ah. Will I blow myself up if I
use the small 12v lead acid charger on the big 12v car batt?

Thanks

David Bevan
http://www.davidbevan.co.uk
Tom Biasi - 25 Jun 2005 10:57 GMT
> This may sound a bit of a silly question, but currently I use one of
> the small 12V 7Ah sealed lead acid batteries to charge my lipos with
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> David Bevan
> http://www.davidbevan.co.uk

Hi David,
The charger you have will charge the larger battery but will take longer.
Car batteries are pretty heavy to be lugging around.
Regards,
Tom
Ban - 25 Jun 2005 11:32 GMT
> This may sound a bit of a silly question, but currently I use one of
> the small 12V 7Ah sealed lead acid batteries to charge my lipos with
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> David Bevan
> http://www.davidbevan.co.uk

The voltage should be OK if it is the same kind of battery. There are
Gel-cells around, that require less voltage. So make sure the charger is for
liquid acid lead batteries. It might get more hot when charging and it will
take forever with that car battery, but it should be suitable.
Signature

ciao Ban
Bordighera, Italy

junk1@davidbevan.co.uk - 25 Jun 2005 16:11 GMT
I think its one of these...

http://www.jperkinsdistribution.co.uk/detail.php?JPNO=5510050&activepage=1&Navma
in=Batteries/Chargers&subcatname=Lead%20acid%20-%20gel%20cells


...the output from my charger is 12V/450mA so I guess it would take
>100h to fully charge a flat /70Ah car battery?

Is it safe to charge a car battery unattended? I usually just leave my
current 12V on charge permenantly in the garage and just take it off
charge to go flying. I always supervise LiPos when I charge them, but
they only take 1h, I dont really fancy baby sitting a 12V car battery
for 100h!

Thanks

David Bevan
http://www.davidbevan.co.uk
Jim Slaughter - 25 Jun 2005 16:45 GMT
You'll quickly ruin the car battery if you charge it constantly. You need to
charge it and then put it on a trickle charger if that's what you want to
do.

>I think its one of these...
>
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> David Bevan
> http://www.davidbevan.co.uk
Tom Biasi - 25 Jun 2005 19:02 GMT
> You'll quickly ruin the car battery if you charge it constantly. You need
> to charge it and then put it on a trickle charger if that's what you want
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>> David Bevan
>> http://www.davidbevan.co.uk

Or buy a deep cycle RV or marine battery.
Steve - 25 Jun 2005 11:44 GMT
> ...so the obvious solution is to buy a 12v car battery (about 70Ah).
>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> technology and same voltage just higher Ah. Will I blow myself up if I
> use the small 12v lead acid charger on the big 12v car batt?

Not quite the same I'm afraid.

A car battery will not withstand deep cycling, go and buy either a
'Leisure' battery or a larger, sealed 'traction' one. Either way, use
the right charger, or you'll write it off in no time !!

- Steve
Steve Banks - 25 Jun 2005 12:31 GMT
Alternative sugestions:

1. Walk back to your car to charge the lipos (or the lead battery)
2. Since car batteries are huge, maybe another 7ah battery will give you
enough charges.
3. How about some sort of foot pump like generator that you can pump the
small lead battery back up, or possibly a lipo directly to save a few
strokes, perhaps even while you are flying.
4. Buy more lipos and pre-charge them?

If you can shlep a battery to the pit area, then your car probably isn't
that far away and is an excellent source for 12 volts (at least here in the
states).

> This may sound a bit of a silly question, but currently I use one of
> the small 12V 7Ah sealed lead acid batteries to charge my lipos with
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> David Bevan
> http://www.davidbevan.co.uk
Funfly3 - 25 Jun 2005 12:54 GMT
buy a cheap car charger from a car shop and buy a car battery from Macro for
£17/£19 and its got 3 a year guarantee that's what I use
John Miller - 25 Jun 2005 13:20 GMT
> buy a cheap car charger from a car shop and buy a car battery from Macro for
> £17/£19 and its got 3 a year guarantee that's what I use

Beware of cheap (unregulated) chargers used routinely.  They will boil
your electrolyte, and generate excess hydrogen while they're at it.

Signature

John Miller
email domain: n4vu.com; username: jsm(@)

Funfly3 - 25 Jun 2005 15:09 GMT
>> buy a cheap car charger from a car shop and buy a car battery from Macro
>> for
>> £17/£19 and its got 3 a year guarantee that's what I use
>
> Beware of cheap (unregulated) chargers used routinely.  They will boil
> your electrolyte, and generate excess hydrogen while they're at it.

What's the price of a regulated charger that will charge a car battery
routinely???  a 10AH charger is around £45 so a 50AH is going to be a lot
more and the battery has a 3 year warranty all for £17 cook it then take it
back
Tim Auton - 25 Jun 2005 16:16 GMT
>>> buy a cheap car charger from a car shop and buy a car battery from Macro
>>> for
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>more and the battery has a 3 year warranty all for £17 cook it then take it
>back

You're getting Amps and Amp-hours confused. A 10A charger can charge a
100Ah battery.

Tim
Signature

Don't tell me I'm still on that feckin' island!

Funfly3 - 25 Jun 2005 22:32 GMT
>>>> buy a cheap car charger from a car shop and buy a car battery from
>>>> Macro
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>
> Tim
No I am not, a decent  charger that bulk charges then float charges has a
maximum capacity battery size it can cope with a charger that's designed for
a small battery will not bulk charge a car battery but your right a  normal
10 amp charger will charge any battery but it will cook it if left on two
long
Mike Norton - 27 Jun 2005 01:43 GMT
I bought a charger for 69 dollars from Sears.  It charges anything that is
12V lead acid under 200 AH, including small gel cells.  You can connect the
battery up backwards with no harm to charger or battery.  It can also
provide a 100A burst to help start an engine (car engine, that is).

I have been charging 7AH gel cells with no problem after every use.  It
normally takes less than a minute.  I suspect most of them die from
overcharge or being left in a discharged state.  I have also been charging
30 AH deep-cycle batteries for field use.

I know that it is a lot of bucks for a charger, but I wanted an automotive
charger that worked better than the one I had.  It is quite an amazing
gadget.

-- Mike Norton

>>> buy a cheap car charger from a car shop and buy a car battery from Macro
>>> for
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> more and the battery has a 3 year warranty all for £17 cook it then take
> it back
ehsjr - 27 Jun 2005 04:03 GMT
> I bought a charger for 69 dollars from Sears.  It charges anything that is
> 12V lead acid under 200 AH, including small gel cells.  You can connect the
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> I have been charging 7AH gel cells with no problem after every use.  It
> normally takes less than a minute.

Something is very wrong.
A battery that charges in less than a minute either
did not need to be charged, was charged *WAY* too fast,
or wasn't really charged, due to the charger shutting
off when it shouldn't.

Check the instructions for your charger - is there something
different you need to do when charging gel cells vs car
batteries?

Ed

<snip>

> -- Mike Norton
Mike Norton - 30 Jun 2005 02:24 GMT
I set it at two amperes charge rate, low-maintenance (gel cell or AGM).
These are separate settings.  In many cases, I suspect you are correct about
not needing to be charged; at least, it does not overcharge it like the
WallWart charger does.

One time, after using the starter on a recalcitrant .91 for what seemed like
an hour, it took 2 hours to charge it.

>> I bought a charger for 69 dollars from Sears.  It charges anything that
>> is 12V lead acid under 200 AH, including small gel cells.  You can
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>
>> -- Mike Norton
Paul McIntosh - 25 Jun 2005 21:45 GMT
I got a 50A regulated charger that automatically goes to trickle.  I think
it cost about $25 at Checker Auto.

>> buy a cheap car charger from a car shop and buy a car battery from Macro
>> for
>> £17/£19 and its got 3 a year guarantee that's what I use
>
> Beware of cheap (unregulated) chargers used routinely.  They will boil
> your electrolyte, and generate excess hydrogen while they're at it.
junk1@davidbevan.co.uk - 25 Jun 2005 16:41 GMT
> 1. Walk back to your car to charge the lipos (or the lead battery)

Charging from my car is an option I had thought about since it has got
a 12V output in the back. The thing that put me off was that the LiPos
are best charged outside of the car (since in certain circumstances
they can catch fire) and I didnt really want to leave 2 or three LiPos
(at £50 each) laying around on the floor where someone might walk off
with them.

>3. How about some sort of foot pump like generator that you can pump the
>small lead battery back up, or possibly a lipo directly to save a few
>strokes, perhaps even while you are flying.

Not too sure if thats a serious suggestion? :-)

>4. Buy more lipos and pre-charge them?
At £50 each I have bought 3 batts and 2 chargers as this allows for
almost continuous flying.

Thanks

David Bevan
http://www.davidbevan.co.uk
Steve Banks - 25 Jun 2005 20:02 GMT
>>3. How about some sort of foot pump like generator that you can pump the
>>small lead battery back up, or possibly a lipo directly to save a few
>>strokes, perhaps even while you are flying.

>Not too sure if thats a serious suggestion? :-)

Just tryin to think outside the box.  I didn't know if the car was anywhere
nearby or if you were hiking somewhere remote and wanted a more self
sufficient solution.  It might not take that many pumps to charge a battery,
lessee if I can take a quick guess:

Lets say your setup can make two pounds of thrust for 600 seconds (10
minutes), or 1200 lb. seconds.

Lets also say you weigh 200lbs.

that means for you to make the same output, you would have to put all your
weight on the pedal for 1200/200 seconds or 6 SECONDS!

Of course there are losses all over the place in this analogy, and the lipo
battery will complain if you charge it in 6 seconds, but it is just a quick
starting point for a guess.
Doug McLaren - 27 Jun 2005 20:37 GMT
| >>3. How about some sort of foot pump like generator that you can pump the
| >>small lead battery back up, or possibly a lipo directly to save a few
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
| that means for you to make the same output, you would have to put all your
| weight on the pedal for 1200/200 seconds or 6 SECONDS!

Your understanding of the idea of work (in the physics sense) is very
flawed.

Mere thrust (force) does not do work.  Force * distance is what gives
you work (energy) -- you'd need to not only push on that pedal, but
actually move it.  A long distance.

Assuming that you could push down on the pedal with 200 lbs of force,
if you moved it one foot that would produce 271 joules -- which would
give you one watt for 271 seconds or some combination thereof.

Assuming you had a 7Ah 12 volt battery (a popular size for field
boxes) and it was completely discharged, and you wanted to completely
charge it by pushing on your pedal with 200 lbs of force, you'd have
to push it 1116 feet.  (This is assuming that everything is 100%
efficient, and that the voltage is exactly 12 volts and stays there,
of course -- assumptions that are not accurate.  In the real world,
you'd have to push the pedal more to compensate for the losses and the
increase in voltage.)

That also means that this battery has enough power, fully charged, to
raise your body (if it weighs 200 lbs) 1116 feet in the air, assuming
all is 100% efficient.

It certainly is possible to charge batteries via muscle power, but a
lot more muscle is required than one might think.

I believe that a top athlete can produce about 1/2 horsepower (380
watts) for several minutes.  Making the same (incorrect) assumptions
as before, this would mean that the athlete could charge that battery
in about 13 minutes, if the athlete could keep up that rate of work.

And this is just for a pretty small battery ...

To make this R/C related, your LiPo battery in your plane is probably
smaller than this field box battery.  Perhaps 1/4th the size, So your
athlete could charge it in about three minutes, which is more
realistic, except that the battery couldn't tolerate that :)

Signature

Doug McLaren, dougmc@frenzy.com
When I die, I want to donate my body to science fiction.

Grant Edwards - 27 Jun 2005 21:02 GMT
>> that means for you to make the same output, you would have to
>> put all your weight on the pedal for 1200/200 seconds or 6
>> SECONDS!
>
> Your understanding of the idea of work (in the physics sense)
> is very flawed.

[...]

> Assuming you had a 7Ah 12 volt battery (a popular size for
> field boxes) and it was completely discharged, and you wanted
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> the pedal more to compensate for the losses and the increase
> in voltage.)

Yup. In the real world, you probably can't get much more than
50% efficiency in the generator, and the voltage is closer to
14V.

That translates into pushing with 200lb of force through a
distance of about 2600 feet (let's just say a half a mile).

> I believe that a top athlete can produce about 1/2 horsepower
> (380 watts) for several minutes.  Making the same (incorrect)
> assumptions as before, this would mean that the athlete could
> charge that battery in about 13 minutes, if the athlete could
> keep up that rate of work.

If I remember correctly from articles on human powered flight,
1/2HP (373W) was about the best you can get from a trained
cyclist for any decent period of time.  IIRC, an average joe
probably can't produce more than 50-100W for more than a few
minutes.

7AH @ 14V == 352,800 Joules.

Assuming a generator efficiency of about 50% and somebody
pedalling at 100W, it would take about 7000 seconds
(352800/(100*0.5)).  Roughly two hours.

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Steve Banks - 28 Jun 2005 01:30 GMT
> | >>3. How about some sort of foot pump like generator that you can pump the
> | >>small lead battery back up, or possibly a lipo directly to save a few
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
> Your understanding of the idea of work (in the physics sense) is very
> flawed bla bla bla.

I guess you missed the relationship between thrust and time.  Hint: pretend
the airplane is just a fancy rocket.  In this example it is putting out 2
lbs. of thrust, for 600 seconds, we are disregarding the weight of the
rocket.

Yes, you actually have to be moving the pedal with your entire weight for
those 6 seconds, but with a spring and proper gearing or leverage, you can
reproduce the same two pound push for 600 seconds.

Reaching for the work formula will not help you see this relationship
without a bit of algebra, and that woud be contrary to my stated goal of a
quick guess ;).
Grant Edwards - 28 Jun 2005 02:31 GMT
>> | weight on the pedal for 1200/200 seconds or 6 SECONDS!
>>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> gearing or leverage, you can reproduce the same two pound push
> for 600 seconds.

Wrong.

Gears and levers do not provide a ratio between thrust/time and
thrust/time.  The ratio provided by gearing/leverage provides
ratios of thrust/distance -- which is what was explained to you
using the formula for work.

> Reaching for the work formula will not help you see this relationship

Because there is no such relationship.

> without a bit of algebra, and that woud be contrary to my
> stated goal of a quick guess ;).

Quick, but not founded in real physics.

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Steve Banks - 28 Jun 2005 07:48 GMT
> >> | weight on the pedal for 1200/200 seconds or 6 SECONDS!
> >>
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>
> Wrong.

> Gears and levers do not provide a ratio between thrust/time and
> thrust/time.  The ratio provided by gearing/leverage provides
> ratios of thrust/distance -- which is what was explained to you
> using the formula for work.

Thanks, I am quite familiar with the formula.  The point of the SPRING was
to store the energy that it could be dissapated as a two pound push for a
longer period.

> > Reaching for the work formula will not help you see this relationship
>
> Because there is no such relationship.

What are you afraid of?!?

> > without a bit of algebra, and that woud be contrary to my
> > stated goal of a quick guess ;).
>
> Quick, but not founded in real physics.

Ok, if you don't trust my instincts then look at Newtons second law and
pretend we are pushing on a large rock in space with our pedal.  We have
known forces( 2 and 200lbs.) , assume a large mass, the times are known(600
and 6 seconds), the terminal velocities can be computed and will be the SAME
if we push for 600 seconds with 2 lbs or 6 seconds with 200 lbs.  The only
trick here is in finding the right sized rock to limit how far you have to
move the pedal in those 6 seconds.
Grant Edwards - 28 Jun 2005 15:23 GMT
>>>> | weight on the pedal for 1200/200 seconds or 6 SECONDS!
>>>>
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
> to store the energy that it could be dissapated as a two pound push for a
> longer period.

I realize that.  However, you seem to think that force
integrated over time is energy.  It isn't force integrated over
_distance_ is energy.   Energy is conserved.  Thrust-time is not.

>>> Reaching for the work formula will not help you see this
>>> relationship
>>
>> Because there is no such relationship.
>
> What are you afraid of?!?

Well, there's a pretty long list, but I don't think it has
anythign to do with this discussion.

>> > without a bit of algebra, and that woud be contrary to my
>> > stated goal of a quick guess ;).
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> second law and pretend we are pushing on a large rock in space
> with our pedal.  

> We have known forces( 2 and 200lbs.) , assume a large mass,
> the times are known(600 and 6 seconds), the terminal
> velocities can be computed and will be the SAME if we push for
> 600 seconds with 2 lbs or 6 seconds with 200 lbs.

Only because the mass you're accellerating is the same in both
cases.  This results in the distance moved by the smaller force
being much larger.

> The only trick here is in finding the right sized rock to
> limit how far you have to move the pedal in those 6 seconds.

I give up.

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Noah Little - 28 Jun 2005 16:20 GMT
> I give up.

Promise? :)
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Noah

Steve Banks - 29 Jun 2005 02:23 GMT
...

> > We have known forces( 2 and 200lbs.) , assume a large mass,
> > the times are known(600 and 6 seconds), the terminal
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> cases.  This results in the distance moved by the smaller force
> being much larger.

True, but the resulting energy that you can extract from the same sized rock
moving at the same velocity is the same.

> > The only trick here is in finding the right sized rock to
> > limit how far you have to move the pedal in those 6 seconds.
>
> I give up.

That is an acceptable answer, I would have also accepted "you idiot!!!" or
"remind me to slap your mama!!!"

Really, it doesn't work, I'm quite aware of that. (hint: momentum !=
energy), I really just like messing with fizzycists like Doug "Watch out for
that slow moving meteor!!" Mclaren
8^o
Doug McLaren - 28 Jun 2005 07:06 GMT
...
| > | that means for you to make the same output, you would have to
| > | put all your weight on the pedal for 1200/200 seconds or 6
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
|
| I guess you missed the relationship between thrust and time.

No, I understand the relationship.  It's just not relevant to figuring
out how hard and long a person would have to work to recharge a
battery.

| Hint: pretend the airplane is just a fancy rocket.  In this example
| it is putting out 2 lbs. of thrust, for 600 seconds, we are
| disregarding the weight of the rocket.

You are grossly mangling the physics involved and using that to come
up with absurd answers.  This is not rocket science, an airplane is
not a fancy rocket, and when we're talking about charging a battery
with human power, there's no need to involve an airplane.

Hint: I have a degree in physics.  I spent several years in school
studying this stuff, though this is _the_ basics, Physics 101.  They
go over this stuff in the very first physics class in college, and
probably in high school too (I don't really remember what we covered
there.)

| Yes, you actually have to be moving the pedal with your entire weight for
| those 6 seconds, but with a spring and proper gearing or leverage, you can
| reproduce the same two pound push for 600 seconds.

So, what I really need to do is put this magic pedal under one of the
corners of my bed (so it's supporting much of my weight), and then
take a nap on it.  Unlimited free energy!  I could put one of these
pedals into an electric R/C plane, wrap it in rubber bands (so there's
a constant force on it) and use that to fly my electric plane across
the Atlantic.  Look out Maynard!  Look out laws of thermodynamics --
I've got a perpetual motion machine, in R/C form!

| Reaching for the work formula will not help you see this
| relationship without a bit of algebra, and that woud be contrary to
| my stated goal of a quick guess ;).

I didn't make a quick guess.  I did all the math and algebra involved
(it's not very much, actually -- took a few minutes) and gave you
exact figures (and explicitly stated all the
assumptions/simplifcations I made.)  Actually, I used the `units'
program to do most of the heavy lifting for me --

  % units
  2084 units, 71 prefixes, 32 nonlinear units
  You have: 200 pounds-force * feet
  You want: joules
          * 271.16359

once I had that figure -- 200 pounds * 1 foot = 271 joules, the rest
was just simple algebra and arithmetic.  Oh, you'll also need to know
that power = voltage * current (watts = volts * amps), one watt = one
joule/second, that there's 3600 seconds in an hour (to convert volts
and amp-hours to joules) and 746 watts in a horsepower (though somehow
I originally had it in my head that it was 760 watts.  Not sure where
that mistake came from ....)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mechanical_work may be of some assistance
if you still don't understand the physics involved.  Go down to the
`Simpler formulae' part -- there's no need to use integrals to get a
good approximation of the human work needed.

Signature

Doug McLaren, dougmc@frenzy.com
Computers make it easy to do alot of things, but most of the things
that make it easier to do don't need to be done. -- Andy Rooney

Steve Banks - 28 Jun 2005 09:00 GMT
> | I guess you missed the relationship between thrust and time.
>
> No, I understand the relationship.  It's just not relevant to figuring
> out how hard and long a person would have to work to recharge a
> battery.

There are tons of losses to consider, nevertheless there is a direct
relationship between an airplanes battery capacity, and how hard and for how
long it can push against the air.  If my guess was within an order of
magnitude then I'd call it a good guess.

> | Hint: pretend the airplane is just a fancy rocket.  In this example
> | it is putting out 2 lbs. of thrust, for 600 seconds, we are
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> not a fancy rocket, and when we're talking about charging a battery
> with human power, there's no need to involve an airplane.

I am not attempting to mangle physics, and I did mention that "there are
losses all over the place in this analogy" and I am well aware of what they
are though I choose not to ramble on and on about them.

> Hint: I have a degree in physics.  I spent several years in school
> studying this stuff, though this is _the_ basics, Physics 101.  They
> go over this stuff in the very first physics class in college, and
> probably in high school too (I don't really remember what we covered
> there.)

Intelligence is no defense against stupidity ;)

> | Yes, you actually have to be moving the pedal with your entire weight for
> | those 6 seconds, but with a spring and proper gearing or leverage, you can
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> corners of my bed (so it's supporting much of my weight), and then
> take a nap on it.  Unlimited free energy! ...

Thats cute, I can imagine you doing a little dance showing off an imaginary
magic pedal to the room while you typed that.

> | Reaching for the work formula will not help you see this
> | relationship without a bit of algebra, and that woud be contrary to
> | my stated goal of a quick guess ;).
>
> I didn't make a quick guess.

That wasn't the point, and you grossly deviated when you made the comparison
of a ~1500mah 9.6 power pack to a 12V 7000ah battery.  With a more correct
battery pack for the thrust and duration given it comes out to just under
120 strokes, or about a minute on the treadmill, which happens to be within
an order of magnitude of my 6 second guess.  So thanks for lending validity
to my theory, which BTW didn't take me years of specialized college
coursework to realize.
Tim Auton - 28 Jun 2005 14:14 GMT
[snip]
>That wasn't the point, and you grossly deviated when you made the comparison
>of a ~1500mah 9.6 power pack to a 12V 7000ah battery.  With a more correct
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>to my theory, which BTW didn't take me years of specialized college
>coursework to realize.

Dude, you're funny.

Tim
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Ian Stirling - 28 Jun 2005 14:23 GMT
In sci.chem.electrochem.battery Steve Banks <none@here.isfine> wrote:
<snip>
> That wasn't the point, and you grossly deviated when you made the comparison
> of a ~1500mah 9.6 power pack to a 12V 7000ah battery.  With a more correct
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> to my theory, which BTW didn't take me years of specialized college
> coursework to realize.

1.5Ah * 9.6V = ~15Wh.
To recharge in a minute (which will kill the cells) you'd need a power
of 15W*60 = 900W.
Say a efficiency of 80%, and you'r up to 1100W.
Trained athletes can't provide that much power, unless ground up and mixed
with oxidiser.
Dan_Thomas_nospam@yahoo.com - 28 Jun 2005 14:53 GMT
>So thanks for lending validity
>to my theory, which BTW didn't take me years of >specialized college
>coursework to realize.

         You need years of specialized college coursework, or actual
experimentation with human-powered generators, to realize just how far
off you are. Any kid who has visited a science center and pedaled one
of those little generators to power a small television (maybe 75 or 100
watts) quickly understands that it takes a LOT of work to generate any
significant amount of juice. Makes one appreciate cheap electricity...

    Dan
Grant Edwards - 28 Jun 2005 15:34 GMT
> That wasn't the point, and you grossly deviated when you made the comparison
> of a ~1500mah 9.6 power pack to a 12V 7000ah battery.  With a more correct
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> to my theory, which BTW didn't take me years of specialized college
> coursework to realize.

OK, we'll try this again.

1.5A * 9.6V * 3600s = 51840 joules. Somebody in decent shape on
a bicylce (far more efficient than a treadmill) can put out
50-100 joules/second for an extended period of time.  On the
conservative side, we'll say 50W. Assuming 50% efficiency for
the combination generator and whatnot:

  1.5 * 9.6 * 3600
 ------------------ =  2074 seconds = 35 minutes.
       50 * 0.5

Assuming 100W (you'd better be in pretty good shape), and a
100% efficient generator and battery (let me know where you
plan on buyign those) it's a fourth of that -- about 9 minutes.

Still not within an order of magnitude of 6 seconds.
       
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Jim Slaughter - 28 Jun 2005 19:09 GMT
what a silly thread. GO FLY!!

>> That wasn't the point, and you grossly deviated when you made the
>> comparison
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>
> Still not within an order of magnitude of 6 seconds.
Grant Edwards - 28 Jun 2005 14:38 GMT
>> Yes, you actually have to be moving the pedal with your entire
>> weight for those 6 seconds, but with a spring and proper
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> of the corners of my bed (so it's supporting much of my
> weight), and then take a nap on it.

You think too small.  Park your car on it overnight!  After
eight hours, you could store up enough thrust-hours to
accellerate your car at 1G for eight hours!  That should be
more than enough thrust to get it into orbit.  Remember to take
some O2. Oh, you might want to save up some thrust-hours to
make a controlled re-entry.

> Unlimited free energy!  I could put one of these pedals into
> an electric R/C plane, wrap it in rubber bands (so there's a
> constant force on it) and use that to fly my electric plane
> across the Atlantic.  Look out Maynard!  Look out laws of
> thermodynamics -- I've got a perpetual motion machine, in R/C
> form!

On my way to the patent office, looking over my shoulder for
snipers working for the oil companies....

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                                 at               know what it means to be
                              visi.com            TRULY ONE with your BOOTH!

Morris Lee - 26 Jun 2005 17:12 GMT
> 1. Walk back to your car to charge the lipos (or the lead battery)

Charging from my car is an option I had thought about since it has got
a 12V output in the back. The thing that put me off was that the LiPos
are best charged outside of the car (since in certain circumstances
they can catch fire) and I didnt really want to leave 2 or three LiPos
(at £50 each) laying around on the floor where someone might walk off
with them.

>3. How about some sort of foot pump like generator that you can pump the
>small lead battery back up, or possibly a lipo directly to save a few
>strokes, perhaps even while you are flying.

Not too sure if thats a serious suggestion? :-)

>4. Buy more lipos and pre-charge them?
At £50 each I have bought 3 batts and 2 chargers as this allows for
almost continuous flying.

Thanks

David Bevan
http://www.davidbevan.co.uk

If you're worried about a LiPo burning up your vehicle, make yourself an
extension cord so your charger and LiPo are away from it.  If you're flying
from a grassy area, it would be a good idea to bring something like a bucket
of sand or some other nonflammable substance to put your pack on or in while
it's charging.   You could also fix up a lockable top on the bucket and
chain it to your vehicle's frame if you're worried about theft! (just
kidding)

Morris
Andrew Mawson - 25 Jun 2005 14:00 GMT
> This may sound a bit of a silly question, but currently I use one of
> the small 12V 7Ah sealed lead acid batteries to charge my lipos with
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> David Bevan
> http://www.davidbevan.co.uk

I OK I'll 'fess up - I don't know -  WHAT'S a LIPOS ??????

AWEM
Funfly3 - 25 Jun 2005 15:02 GMT
>> This may sound a bit of a silly question, but currently I use one of
>> the small 12V 7Ah sealed lead acid batteries to charge my lipos with
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>
> AWEM

Lithium Polymer or LiPo for short at the moment these are the way forward
for a lot of electric flying my 11.1v 2600mah LiPo weighs 140 grams, my 9.6v
2400mah NiCd pack weighs 500 grams, LiPo have a much greater charge density
than normal packs or in other words are lighter and smaller for the same
capacity
Poxy - 25 Jun 2005 15:23 GMT
>>> This may sound a bit of a silly question, but currently I use one of
>>> the small 12V 7Ah sealed lead acid batteries to charge my lipos with
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
> greater charge density than normal packs or in other words are
> lighter and smaller for the same capacity

And they have an unfortunate propensity to spontaneously burn up SUVs.

Exhibit A:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140641
Doug McLaren - 25 Jun 2005 15:50 GMT
...
| > Lithium Polymer or LiPo for short at the moment these are the way
| > forward for a lot of electric flying my 11.1v 2600mah LiPo weighs 140
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
|
| And they have an unfortunate propensity to spontaneously burn up SUVs.

And if you'll read the description of the story you linked to, they
didn't `spontaneously' burn up that SUV.  The pack was damaged --
that's hardly spontaneous, even if it was slightly delayed.

And to be fair, NiCd batteries can cause fires too when damaged.

Yes, LiPos do require that some care be taken with them, and if you
fail to take proper care of them they can catch fire.  But 1) under
the right (wrong) conditions, other batteries can cause fires/catch
fire too, and 2) they're not the sticks of unstable dynamite that
people seem to make them out to be.

| Exhibit A:
| http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140641

Signature

Doug McLaren, dougmc@frenzy.com
She gave me a look you could have poured on pancakes.

colin - 25 Jun 2005 17:08 GMT
> ...
> | > Lithium Polymer or LiPo for short at the moment these are the way
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> | Exhibit A:
> | http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140641

lead acid batteries can go with a hell of a bang too if they generate enough
hydrogen gas wich then gets ignited.
(like if u acidently short one out after over charging it !)

Colin =^.^=
wanjung@toast.net - 28 Jun 2005 05:50 GMT
Andrew

I have been  away from this discussion group for a long. Now I am on a
roll. Good to be back. I thought everyone knows what a Lipo (Lithium
Polymer) is by now. This is the type of battery that is all the rage
now. Beats NiMh, Nicad. Lipos are lighter, smaller, longer flight
times.

I am by far not an expert, been using them for about 3 years. Loved
them.

Wan
wanjung@toast.net - 28 Jun 2005 05:52 GMT
Andrew

I have been  away from this discussion group for a long. Now I am on a
roll. Good to be back. I thought everyone knows what a Lipo (Lithium
Polymer) is by now. This is the type of battery that is all the rage
now. Beats NiMh, Nicad. Lipos are lighter, smaller, longer flight
times.

I am by far from being an expert, been using them for about 3 years.
Loved them.

Wan
Tim Auton - 25 Jun 2005 16:31 GMT
>This may sound a bit of a silly question, but currently I use one of
>the small 12V 7Ah sealed lead acid batteries to charge my lipos with
>(via a lipo charger) - but I only get about 3 charges before the 12V
>has dropped too far.
>
>...so the obvious solution is to buy a 12v car battery (about 70Ah).

Is this for charging in the field or at home?

If it's for use at home, get a 13.8V (or 12V) power supply. I've got
the Pro Peak 20A one. £35 and it's got more than enough oomph for
everything I need. I've not seen another PSU with similar capacity
anywhere near the price, except in a PC of course :)

http://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk/Pro+Peak+Power+supply-5167.htm

If it's for the field I wouldn't get a car battery. Decide how many
charges you want, then buy cyclic or deep-discharge rated SLA of
appropriate capacity. Do you really need 30 charges out of a field
battery? Lugging a car battery around is no fun, if you drop it acid
pours out and they aren't rated for deep-discharge cyclic use so you'd
be lucky if it lasts a year.

A cyclic-rated SLA will give you over 500 genuine cycles, which is
several years of flying for most of us.

Tim
Signature

Don't tell me I'm still on that feckin' island!

junk1@davidbevan.co.uk - 25 Jun 2005 16:50 GMT
> Decide how many charges you want, then buy cyclic or deep-discharge rated SLA of appropriate capacity.

Is SLA short for sealed lead acid? As thats what I have got now and I
cant seem to find them over 7Ah? I am charging 1600mAh LiPo packs, and
get 2 or 3 charges before the charger refuses to charge (as input
voltage has dropped)

I guess if im realistic then I will go to the patch with 3 charged
LiPos and probably wont want more than 10 flights which will mean
7x1600mA = 11Ah - so I guess I would need a minimum of 15Ah in the 12V.
Please let me know if you can find such a battery.

Thanks

David Bevan
http://www.davidbevan.co.uk
Tim Auton - 25 Jun 2005 17:44 GMT
>> Decide how many charges you want, then buy cyclic or deep-discharge rated SLA of appropriate capacity.
>
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>7x1600mA = 11Ah - so I guess I would need a minimum of 15Ah in the 12V.
>Please let me know if you can find such a battery.

Search for "sealed lead acid" on your favourite search engine and
you'll find loads of suppliers. One at random:

http://eurobatteries.com/sitepages/sla.asp

Tim
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Don't tell me I'm still on that feckin' island!

John Savage - 28 Jun 2005 02:32 GMT
>Is SLA short for sealed lead acid? As thats what I have got now and I
>cant seem to find them over 7Ah?

You haven't discovered the 'Cyclon' range then. I've been using a pair of
small 2.5AH Cyclons in a flashlight since about 1982 with no problems until
just last week when one of them developed an internal short. That's longevity
for you! You can get 2v cells in 25AH, so you'd need 6 of them. An advantage
of building using single cells is that if one goes bad you don't have to
replace the whole lot--just the one cell. Search: hawker cyclon lead
Signature

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Jim Slaughter - 25 Jun 2005 16:44 GMT
Buy a small tractor battery. They're about $18 at your local auto parts
store. Buy a cheap auto battery charger for it. You should be able to get
one in the $20-30 range. I have two tractor batteries. (They're not very
heavy) I keep 'em both charged.

Of course the simplest solution is to use your CAR BATTERY to charge your
lipos! That's what I do when I'm at the field.

A final solution is to buy a 12V power source to use your li-po charger in
the house!

The little gel cells just don't have enough amp hours to last long.

> This may sound a bit of a silly question, but currently I use one of
> the small 12V 7Ah sealed lead acid batteries to charge my lipos with
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> David Bevan
> http://www.davidbevan.co.uk
Paul McIntosh - 25 Jun 2005 21:42 GMT
It'll work just fine, only very slow.  Go to Walmart and get a cheap auto
charger.  Prolly not more than $20.00.

> This may sound a bit of a silly question, but currently I use one of
> the small 12V 7Ah sealed lead acid batteries to charge my lipos with
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> David Bevan
> http://www.davidbevan.co.uk
Fubar of The HillPeople - 26 Jun 2005 00:07 GMT
I use a Die Hard lawn tractor battery for my electric flying. I charge it
using one of those Battery Tender charger/minders.
Much smaller than a standard car batt with a high capacity.
Cool thing with the tender is you can leave it hooked up all week and it
keeps the battery up without overcharging.
The lawn tractor battery also fits in the bottom of a rolling plastic tool
box I have keeping me self sufficient at the field.

Signature

Dan
AMA605992
KE6ERB
http://www.fubar1.net
"I've heard the screams of the vegetables..."
Take out the "trash" to reply

> This may sound a bit of a silly question, but currently I use one of
> the small 12V 7Ah sealed lead acid batteries to charge my lipos with
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> David Bevan
> http://www.davidbevan.co.uk
Dr1 - 26 Jun 2005 13:15 GMT
but I only get about 3 charges before the 12V has dropped too far.
You need to use a power supply.  Using a battery to supply voltage to a
battery charger is a no win situation.  It works with field chargers
only because the supply battery is MUCH larger than the battery being
charged, and can be kept peaked by the car's engine.

(about 70Ah).
Good luck finding a car battery that small.  They usually come in
ratings of 600Ah or more.

The question is; will I be able to charge the 12V car battery with the
same charger that I use to charge the 12V sealed lead acid?
Yup <giggle> but you may be there for days.

Dr.1
Funfly3 - 26 Jun 2005 13:32 GMT
> but I only get about 3 charges before the 12V has dropped too far.
> You need to use a power supply.  Using a battery to supply voltage to a
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> Good luck finding a car battery that small.  They usually come in
> ratings of 600Ah or more.
I think on this point your are way of the mark a 600Ah battery is massive
fork lift truck sized, the maximun sized battery fitted to my Vauxhall Astra
is 70Ah

> The question is; will I be able to charge the 12V car battery with the
> same charger that I use to charge the 12V sealed lead acid?
> Yup <giggle> but you may be there for days.
>
> Dr.1
SC - 26 Jun 2005 19:51 GMT
>> (about 70Ah).
>> Good luck finding a car battery that small.  They usually come in
>> ratings of 600Ah or more.
> I think on this point your are way of the mark a 600Ah battery is massive
> fork lift truck sized, the maximun sized battery fitted to my Vauxhall
> Astra is 70Ah

FWIW - car batteries are supposed to be used to start engines and nothing
else.
The most important number therefore is the maximum current that can be
drawn..
Logically - thats the number placed in the big letters on the side of
batts:)

Biggest 'car' batts I have personally seen are 100AH capacity - these
delivered 700A
- at least thats what it said on the side;) Methinks if you were to drain
it in 8 mins it would be a bit warm!

SC
wanjung@toast.net - 28 Jun 2005 05:39 GMT
> This may sound a bit of a silly question, but currently I use one of
> the small 12V 7Ah sealed lead acid batteries to charge my lipos with
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> David Bevan
> http://www.davidbevan.co.uk

I hope you can  forgive me. This way off topic. I don't know what
happened, but I have been unable to log onto this usenet for the
longest time and am just trying to see if I could do it. Strangely, now
I can whereas I could not for almost a year.

However I do know people have been using car batteries for charging Li
Polies sucessfully. They just use a 12 volt charger to recharge the
batery. No problems.

Wan
olddog - 30 Jun 2005 00:22 GMT
Er, i think the best way to charge a car battery, is to leave it in the car.
>> This may sound a bit of a silly question, but currently I use one of
>> the small 12V 7Ah sealed lead acid batteries to charge my lipos with
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>
> Wan
John Fields - 30 Jun 2005 00:43 GMT
>Er, i think the best way to charge a car battery, is to leave it in the car.

---
And drive around for a while.

Signature

John Fields
Professional Circuit Designer

GregS - 30 Jun 2005 15:40 GMT
>>Er, i think the best way to charge a car battery, is to leave it in the car.
>
>---
>And drive around for a while.

That might not be safe!

greg
 
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