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Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Air Models / May 2006electric flyer hinge tape
Hi I have been out of the hobby for a year or so and, to get my motivation going again, I am currently building a small foam electric model (Miss Hanger One). On MH1 the foam control surfaces are merely sanded at 45degrees and hinged using "Dubro electric flyer hinge tape". However, I am more used to building larger models (up to quarter scale) and control surfaces fitted with "proper" hinges securely glued (and pegged) into solid balsa - hinging with tape, even on a small model, looks a trifle insubstantial to me. When using hinge tape on electric models, is it normal practice to just apply the tape to one side of the control surface or should I hinge both sides? Regards KGB > Hi > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > just apply the tape to one side of the control surface or should I > hinge both sides? I do both. I don't use tape - just a strip of solite each side, then cover the lot with solite again. On larger models, solartex or solarfilm is good. > Regards > > KGB > Hi > [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > KGB FOOL! Everyone knows if you want to be taken seriously you have to have a scale model running 4 stroke petrol engine. Its bad enough to buy an electric but to make one out yourself out of foam and tape? Geez. <snigger> <SNIP> >> When using hinge tape on electric models, is it normal practice to >> just apply the tape to one side of the control surface or should I [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >electric but to make one out yourself out of foam and tape? Geez. ><snigger> Hi Thanks for the helpful advice. Alas, I do not possess a 4-stroke petrol engine. The nearest I have in my workshop to such a beast is:- Saito 56 4 stroke Laser 150 4 stroke Laser 200 (V twin) 4 stroke Zenoah G45 petrol Plus assorted smaller engines - glow and diesel. I am simply not used to foam and tape; my current meagre collection includes:- Paper Aviation "Regal Eagle" (large cardboard model!!!) 1/4 scale Mick Reeves Sopwith Camel 1/4 scale Glen's Models Extra 1/4 scale Flair Tiger Moth 1/4 scale Precedent Stampe Flair Puppeteer Plus assorted sports, funfly, glider models and "own designs". I would point out that all these involve some limited skill with a craft knife and the ability to stick two bits of balsa together rather than buying a "Ready to Fly" model. Unfortunately, my workshop is a shade too small to build any more biggies, so - having had a break from modelling for a year or so due to moving house, I thought in my foolishness that I would try something cheap and cheerful to rekindle my enthusiasm for the hobby and that I could literally just throw in the car and fly without getting any of that nasty glow fuel on my nice new Rohan trousers. I apologise if I offended anybody by building a feeble flying electric model - just how feeble, check out the videos (especially video 1) at:- <http://www.redshangarone.com/products/miss.html> The nearest I have ever come to a 4 stroke petrol engine in a plane, was when I had an aerobatic flight in a full size WW2 Stearman biplane over Los Angeles - now that I can recommend. Regards - apologetically 8^) KGB > <SNIP> >>> When using hinge tape on electric models, is it normal practice to [quoted text clipped - 54 lines] > > KGB My Zagi has tape both sides but my little 3d style pitts has tape on only the top surface on the ailerons and elevator and both sides on the rudder(for cosmetic purposes only)and touch wood is been fine so far >>> When using hinge tape on electric models, is it normal practice to >>> just apply the tape to one side of the control surface or should I >>> hinge both sides? I can understand your concerns, tape does seem a bit dodgy when compared to other methods. If it bolsters your confidence in trying the stuff... I have used it for taping the elevons onto a zagi. The zagi did not have the most comfortable of existencies on the slopes I fly off. It has been repaired, recovered several times but.... the elevons never once fell off !!! There are a variety of tapes you can use but I would do both sides of the control surface. A lot of people have found "Diamond" tape to be OK, if you haven't seen it then it is like sellotape but very clear and apparently isn't unduly affected by light.... local stationary suppliers is where it can be found. One good thing with an electric jobbie... the fuel ain't going to bring the tape off >:-) Reg I thought in my foolishness that I would try > something cheap and cheerful to rekindle my enthusiasm for the hobby > and that I could literally just throw in the car and fly without [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Regards - apologetically 8^) Chalk another up for the everready brigade. As for offending anyone nah, Macgyver would be proud. and as for anymore nay sayers of electric flight check this out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ux497FTW_5M >I thought in my foolishness that I would try >> something cheap and cheerful to rekindle my enthusiasm for the hobby [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > >http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ux497FTW_5M Hi Personally, I think it needs trimming properly - it obviously won't fly straight and level. And as for the crappy ground handling at the start of the flight, he clearly has a sticking wheel!!!!! The last model of mine that flew like that was when the tranny aerial fell off half way through a flight. Regards 8^) P.S. To get back on topic, I wonder how he hinged the control surfaces. KGB Diamond tape or similar on both surfaces is the way to go > Hi > [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > KGB Yes, 'Diamond' tape is the way to go. It is very clear so does not spoil the colour scheme, it resembles slightly thick sellotape and comes in small rolls. Like sellotape the security of the adhesion more depends on what it is sticking to than the strength of the material. For solarfilm, profilm etc where it sticks well, a piece on one side is fine for speed 400 type planes. I use it in one piece, the whole length of the hinge, and to remove the 'unsightly gap' then apply a piece of film over the top. For foam maybe both sides is needed but it is much stronger than it looks, especially as there is no fuel to compromise the adhesion. As a final tip, rub the tape down firmly with a fingernail after application Allan > Diamond tape or similar on both surfaces is the way to go > [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] >> >> KGB |
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