 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
| HomeDiscussion Groups General ModelsRailroadsRocketsRadio Controlled Air ModelsHelicoptersLand ModelsWater ModelsModelGeeks.com Contact UsLink To UsSearch & Site Map |
Model Forum / General / Models / May 200830Int and BT30 Tooling
Having just bought the Beaver turret mill, I am now on the lookout for some 30Int tooling for it. I have loads of 40Int for the A&S mills (1ES and 2ES) but sod's law says I have to get a vertical with something different! Talking with John S about the differences between 30Int and BT30, it seems that there isn't a huge difference, only the rear parallel section with the drawbar thread on the 30Int whereby the BT30 has only a straight taper body. Any thoughts/experiences from users on the merits (or otherwise) of using one or t'other?? Peter -- Peter & Rita Forbes Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel >Having just bought the Beaver turret mill, I am now on the lookout for some >30Int tooling for it. I have loads of 40Int for the A&S mills (1ES and 2ES) but >sod's law says I have to get a vertical with something different! Count yourself lucky, Peter - I've got both on the same mill! >Talking with John S about the differences between 30Int and BT30, it seems that >there isn't a huge difference, only the rear parallel section with the drawbar >thread on the 30Int whereby the BT30 has only a straight taper body. > >Any thoughts/experiences from users on the merits (or otherwise) of using one or >t'other?? Thers seems to be more 30INT around secondhand than BT30, & if you try to use both you'll be constantly messing about with drawbar lengths. What are you looking for in particular? I've got a few more bits of 30 tooling than I need, after getting a job lot of QC30 for the Bridgeport. I've also got a nice little high speed angle head for a Beaver....... Cheers Tim Dutton Dry-Dock Traditional & Modern canal craft repairs Vintage diesel engine service > Having just bought the Beaver turret mill, I am now on the lookout for some > 30Int tooling for it. I have loads of 40Int for the A&S mills (1ES and 2ES) but [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk > Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel Agggh..not another person to compete with .. need some of the stuff myself . only have one collet chuck and four collets so far.. I was going to bid on this little lot ......but when it said bid £190 to "WIN" in the last 30 seconds I changed my mind .. still wondering if I should have bid..see below. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=3871514656&ssPageName= STRK:MEWA:IT anyone got some of this stuff cheap...give me a shout... all the best...mark >> Having just bought the Beaver turret mill, I am now on the lookout >for some [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] >anyone got some of this stuff cheap...give me a shout... >all the best...mark If you look at how much of that stuff you would actually use, it seems to me to be a bit pricey, you can't use them all at once :-)) I did see them but kept out as the prices were rising quite sharply, always a bad sign.... I'm chasing another lot locally, so if I get any spares, I'll give you a shout. I will also be talking to Tim leech about his bits on offer as well :-)) I will have to check on the beer token stocks! Peter -- Peter & Rita Forbes Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel > If you look at how much of that stuff you would actually use, it seems to me to > be a bit pricey, you can't use them all at once :-)) [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk > Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel Thankyou Peter. think I nead The QC ones .ones with the single collar on. I dont know really but ..think I would rather have ...because "I think anyway" one with a Morse one taper... one with a Morse two taper and one with a Morse three taper ..rather than using sleaves .....do you think this will be more accurate than sleves or am I being toooo fussy. Also nead at least two more collet chucks......so that I can make full use of quick change and have all the chucks lined up with drills, pilot drills and reamers etc. also one with an Albrect hand tighten chuck. then I nead a full set of collets...not sure but I think most of them take DA180 collets. also the collet chucks have to have the little loose threaded things inside, to secure endmills with threaded shanks. also handy would be a flycutter one. lol.......you can see this list could get very long ....so I'll settle for some of them for now .... Anyone else who has any of the above give me a shout........cheap please.....ebay is getting to be beyond a joke. oh btw ...I live in Prestatyn North Wales..so the nearer the better..... I've just got hold of some "brand new" very-shiny David Brown adjustable reamers with vernier adjustment.......these would make a nice swap. all the best.....mark >Agggh..not another person to compete with .. >need some of the stuff myself . [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > >http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=3871514656&ssPageName= STRK:MEWA:IT Not a bad deal for someone who wants most or all of it, IMHO. Looks as though a lot of it is QC30, wouldn't mind a QC30 autolock myself! Cheers Tim Dutton Dry-Dock Traditional & Modern canal craft repairs Vintage diesel engine service >Agggh..not another person to compete with .. >need some of the stuff myself . [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] >anyone got some of this stuff cheap...give me a shout... >all the best...mark I'll be going to have a look at some stuff on the weekend at a dealer's place, I'll post here if there is anything significant that we could maybe do a 'bulk buy' on, rather than individually. Peter -- Peter A Forbes Prepair Ltd, Luton, UK prepair@easynet.co.uk http://www.prepair.co.uk OK that's great Peter...I will be watching this space. all the best........mark I too have an ISO/Int 30 mill and to make it worse it also has a horizontal spindle which is ISO 40. I have lots of ISO 40 stuff - an (now)enough ISO 30 stuff. The thought of dangling a 30/40 adapter fro the machine nose would, I think give a huge overhang and make th machine near useless. A new spindle may be a non-starter considering th complication (mine has power downfeed to the ISO 30 quill). 30 size i quite dinky but it handles the power OK - in my case an adapter for th horizontal spindle would make more sense - go down in size to 30. Why not make your own 30 stuff - I have converted a GMT boring/ facin head by making a replacement arbor in the 30 size -it was ISO40. I als have a home brewed adapter from ISO30 to 5 Morse - used very carefull and only with drills - the headroom is really limited but it did th job -- Coriu >I too have an ISO/Int 30 mill and to make it worse it also has an >horizontal spindle which is ISO 40. I have lots of ISO 40 stuff - and [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >Why not make your own 30 stuff - I have converted a GMT boring/ facing >head by making a replacement arbor in the 30 size -it was ISO40. What mill is that? My Elliott Omnimil is the same, though the spindle on the vertical head looks quite meaty enough to take a 40 taper, I have turned down a couple of 40 taper items to 30, with reasonable success. >I also >have a home brewed adapter from ISO30 to 5 Morse - used very carefully >and only with drills - the headroom is really limited but it did the >job. That sounds a bit alarming! I've got a 30 to 4 morse adapter, that's bad enough! Tim >>I too have an ISO/Int 30 mill and to make it worse it also has an >>horizontal spindle which is ISO 40. I have lots of ISO 40 stuff - and [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > >Tim My Elliott UO has a 40 horizontal and 30 vertical. They did make a 40 vertical head for it - I know because I had one on an older model. Charles >>Agggh..not another person to compete with .. >>need some of the stuff myself . [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > >Peter How do I explain this to SWMBO? regards Mark Rand RTFM >How do I explain this to SWMBO? > >regards >Mark Rand >RTFM You don't, it just gets sneaked indoors when she isn't looking! That's what the rest of us do.... Peter -- Peter & Rita Forbes Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel > >How do I explain this to SWMBO? > > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk > Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel Hang on a minute, mate. Some of us enjoy a full & frank relationship with our wives! :-) Workshop equipment is designated as labour saving devices and as such needs to be updated regularly, so that outdated equipment doesn't cause overly prolonged absences from our good ladies" company.. Sound plausible? Works for me. :-) Tom If your wife is "Frank", then I won't be bending over forwards to help you! (But should a married couple be Frank and Earnest?) > Hang on a minute, mate. Some of us enjoy a full & frank relationship > with our wives! :-) A busy day yesterday! Up at 5.00am, drove with the trailer to Bramcote Farm*, dropped the trailer off. Solo to Derby, had a meeting, did some other work (the day job!) Back to Bramcote Farm to collect the trailer, now loaded with 80 yards of 7.25" track, then off to Redditch to see Richard and collect two 4.5HP 24v electric motors, then back down the M5 and M4 home to Wiltshire. At Bramcote Farm I noticed that Adrian had an interesting coach that set me thinking. It was the style of a railcar. Using that as an idea and whilst carefully observing the traffic on the way back down the motorway, I had the following ideas. The railway at Lackham will initially move from being a straight up-and-back to one half of a dumbbell. I will then need a turntable to turn the steam engines (and Stumpy). A railcar is very tempting. It could have two driving positions that can be lock out when not in use. Space for say, 7 passengers plus driver and be driven off one of the 24v electric motors. Adrian was saying that Cromar White now do a controller that can be "ganged" so I could build a second, identical, railcar that could worked in tandem with the first when we got busy. This raises the following issues/questions! 1. The electric motors have hydraulic pumps attached. How complicated would it be to make it hydraulic drive (I've never played with this, so it's a steep learning curve). Who does hydraulic kit? What will I need? (How expensive is it compared to other drives?) 2. I could use a body mounted motor with a cardan (prop) shaft type drive (Like the Virgin Voyagers). Has that ever been done in this gauge? 3. The motor is too wide for a 7.25" bogie, but I need to gear it down, so a 90 degree change and an gear box is another option. 4. I could use 2 x 12v batteries, even 4 x 12v batteries, but I would like a way of recharging them. How about putting a cheap generator (£60 these days for a 850W and a 12v output) in one of the seats (suitable soundproofed) with fans for cooling etc. to charge the batteries when the vehicle is idling. Can you have the batteries, effectively in parallel for charging, but in series for the motors? So many questions, but at least they are all ME related! Cheers Peter *Bramcote Farm - Home of Adrian Grimmet and the "Engineer's Emporium" Can you have the batteries, effectively in >parallel for charging, but in series for the motors? Changing my hat to battery charger manufacturer: Charging batteries in series is fine as long as certain requirements are met, and constant current charging is best, thus ensuring that all cells get the current through them, but it does need monitoring. Constant voltage is fine but you will probably need to equalise the cells every so often as they will get out of charge balance with each other. Charging batteries in parallel is a bit of a no-no, as you cannot guarantee that each battery is going to receive the charge it needs. Also, it is possible for batteries in parallel to 'cycle-down' by interbattery discharging, so steering diodes are 'usually' fitted into series-parallel battery banks. Peter -- Peter & Rita Forbes Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel I thought that "Stumpy" had hydraulic control for forward/reverse? >> 1. The electric motors have hydraulic pumps attached. How complicated > would it be to make it hydraulic drive (I've never played with this, so > it's a steep learning curve). Who does hydraulic kit? What will I > need? (How expensive is it compared to other drives?) The website is live!!! Have a look at www.lmandwr.co.uk Cheers Peter Nice site, but somebody shoot that bloody pheasent! Regards Kevin >The website is live!!! > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > >Peter > I thought that "Stumpy" had hydraulic control for forward/reverse? > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >> this, so it's a steep learning curve). Who does hydraulic kit? >> What will I need? (How expensive is it compared to other drives?) Stumpy does, but it is all nicely contained in an "Eaton" unit. I have a lever that you move forward to go forward and back to go back! What I am proposing is a hydraulic pump, motor, valves, filters, reservoir et. etc. I don't know what I need and I was hoping that someone had been down this route before! Cheers Peter > > I thought that "Stumpy" had hydraulic control for forward/reverse? > > [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > Peter First we need to throw a few things over the calculator.. What's required is the rated capacity of the pumps: GPM at what pressure and what type of pump are they? Are the motors rated for continuous use or intermittent? What would be the estimated hp (at the drivers) needed for tractive effort? What diameter wheels and top speed required? Tom >>What I am proposing is a hydraulic pump, motor, valves, filters, >>reservoir et. etc. I don't know what I need and I was hoping that [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > Tom Apologies for the delay, the day job took me away for a couple of days! Rated Capacity - haven't a clue. They are bolted on the end of a Lansing Bagnall motor. The motor is rated at 4.5HP for 10 minutes at 2800 rpm. They are Dowty with the reference 3013 C TDTB. (I can't find anything with that reference on the web). (GPM - gallons per minute?) The hydraulic motors I am looking at are reversible and rated at, 650 RPM @ 6.5 GPM (25 LPM), 2750 psi max. operating pressure, 733 in-lb of torque. The wheels are around 5", so at top RPM would give a max speed of 9.7mph, so that's not unreasonable. What would the hydraulic circuit look like? Pump, reservoir?, valves to direct the flow forward/reverse? I assume that all you do is reverse the feed, so there needs to be a return path? Cheers Peter > >>What I am proposing is a hydraulic pump, motor, valves, filters, > >>reservoir et. etc. I don't know what I need and I was hoping that [quoted text clipped - 38 lines] > > Peter At 24V, sounds like they are are out of an electric pallet truck.. Bit of a mismatch though, as the electric motor equates to 3.36 kw and the hyd/motors at full capacity at 5.54 kw. Doing the calcs, the pump @ 2750 psi, delivers 10.62 litres so falling short of maximising the performance of the hyd/motors, at 276 rpm. A problem with using intermittent duty motors, is the off duty cycle delay while they return to ambient temperature. Apart from what you list above, a flow control valve in the circuit would allow smooth takeoffs. Tom <snip> > > Rated Capacity - haven't a clue. They are bolted on the end of a > > Lansing Bagnall motor. The motor is rated at 4.5HP for 10 minutes at [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > The wheels are around 5", so at top RPM would give a max speed of > > 9.7mph, so that's not unreasonable. <snip> > > Cheers > > [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > Tom Tom, Thanks for that. How have you quoted the flow from the pump? Is that based on the kW of the electric motor? If you have found details of the pump, could you point me to them? With regard to cooling. The run (at present) is at most 5 minutes and not all of that will be on full load, so the 10 minute 4.5HP max rating shouldn't be a problem. If your figures are correct, should I look at a 2:1 step up between the motor and the axle (as you seem to predict that I will only achieve 50% of the rated output)? They are Lansing Bagnall "badged" motors, I was told that they came from a stacker truck (but that was un-corroborated). I was going to control the speed of the electric motor to control the speed, would I still need a flow control valve? Cheers Peter > <snip> > > > Rated Capacity - haven't a clue. They are bolted on the end of a [quoted text clipped - 62 lines] > > Peter Yes, I worked on the hp & psi to get the flow, however I might be a trifle high on the flow as I later found some for sale that were listed at 200 bar. No free lunches with hydraulics, so you will have to gear up, if you want that speed.. Of course this carries the caveat of torque reduction at the drivers. If you can control the electric motor that would eliminate the flow control valve. All you need now is a open centre motor control valve. These have a motoring spool that will allow the motor to free wheel in neutral. Whereas a conventional valve would stop the motor when in neutral, however, considering the flows involved you possibly could use one and gain the benefit of using it to provide braking. Tom Subject: Re: Build 'em big! > I am not sure where Tom got the figures for the pump from. Probably used a formula like P=V(dot) p where P is power, V(dot) is volumetric flow rate and P is pressure. throw in a fudge factor for pump efficiency. The problem is the formula only works if you use a consistent set of units ( metric , use power in whats, volume flow in cubic meters per second and pressure in pascals ) > I chose a motor (very simply) to have a higher capacity than the pump, > so I could be sure I wouldn't strain the motor. (It was also cheap(ish) > on ebay) Unless you have a spare pump I would go the other way round, motors are cheaper than pumps, and electric overload protection is fairly cheap and simple. > I plan to make a railcar with it. It will be double ended with one > hydraulic "power pack" (24v dc motor + pump) driving one hydraulic > motor. When you say double ended do you mean a pack etc at each end ? The railcar will carry up to 8 people (including driver), so a > maximum load of say half a ton (maybe slightly more if I have 8 average > adults!) ? Maximum gradient, not measured but probably 1:60 to 1:70. 8 x 70 = 560 kg, batteries 4 x 30 = 120, reservoir, pump motor 100 ? chassis and wheels, 100 ? total weight 900 kg Lets allow a 1:20 gradient, 2% rolling resistance, at 10 mph. tractive force = ( 900 / 20 + 900 x 0.02 ) x 9.81 = 620 N speed ( 10 mph ) = 4.47 m/s delivered power = 2.8 kW ( = 3.7 Hp ) to allow for getting up to speed you will need a bit more, say 5 Hp. If I'm right about the efficiency of hydraulic pumps and motors you would need a very big electric motor ( 50 Hp ?? ) Anyone got figures on hydraulic efficiency ?? At 733 lbin working a 5" wheel you have 293 lbf ( = 1300 N ) available from a single motor, but you only need about 800 N to provide reasonable acceleration, so about 2/3 of the maximum pressure will be needed to run the motor, or 1/3 if two motors are being used. > I also plan to make two railcars and using the latest control gear from > Cromar White, operate them in multiple if necessary. > > I was planning on controlling the speed of the train by controlling the > speed of the dc motor (and thus the flow rate). Is that feasible? Power electronics are quite expensive in comparison to hydraulic restrictors, but restrictors make a system very inefficient. When you start looking at the detail you realise why about the only vehicles that use hydraulic drives are diggers ( they only need to move a little every now and then, and already have a hefty hydraulic system they don't need to use for digging when on the move ). > Cheers > [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > > > > The pump is a low flow high pressure design, good for rams, bad for motors. > > the motors running together at full speed need 13 g/min =59 l. > > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > > > Hydraulic drives are very inefficient... I may not be remembering correctly > > but AIR, 30% for both pump and motor gave an overall efficiency of about 10% > > on one system I speced out . > > > > controlling speed by controlling the pump is possible, but many motors do not > > take kindly to being run slow as they rely on a shaft driven fan for > > cooling. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > > > Valve needs to swap direction, with a free return as it's central position. > > Hydraulic systems tend to cost a lot... factor in the cost of lines and > > fittings. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > > > To reply remove AT Jonathan Barnes's theorem; for every foolproof device there is a fool greater than the proof. To reply remove AT > Subject: Re: Build 'em big! > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > ( metric , use power in whats, volume flow in cubic meters per second and > pressure in pascals ) "volume flow in cubic meters per second" Yeah right.. >> Subject: Re: Build 'em big! >> [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > "volume flow in cubic meters per second" Yeah right.. Power in 'whats' !! Mr Watt must be turning in his grave...:-)) Peter -- Peter A Forbes Prepair Ltd, Luton, UK prepair@easynet.co.uk http://www.prepair.co.uk > Power in 'whats' !! > > Mr Watt must be turning in his grave...:-)) > > Peter Dyslexia ???? strikes again K.O. apologies to Mr Watt  SignatureJonathan Barnes's theorem; for every foolproof device there is a fool greater than the proof. To reply remove AT Oh I hate it when a plan suffers perpendicular mammary syndrome! The nice man from Linde (the new name for Lansing Bagnall) got back in touch with me. As you (correctly) surmised, it isn't one of the biggest pumps in the world! It is rated at 1.28GPM at 1500rpm (motor full speed is 2800 rpm). Minimum speed is 650rpm and it has a maximum pressure of 3000psi (he seemed to remember pressure relief set at 2400psi). Looks like I have a limping tram as the motors I have need 6.5GPM for 650rpm! Do you know any sources of cheap hydraulic pumps in the UK? I'd like to stick with the hydraulic idea if I can (after all I've bought the hydraulic motors now!). Cheers Peter >Oh I hate it when a plan suffers perpendicular mammary syndrome! > [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > >Peter Talk to Peter Smith, he buys and sells a lot of ex-mod stuff and his auctions have has Plessey and similar pumps on there, he may well have something unsold. I'll email you off-list with his details Peter -- Peter A Forbes Prepair Ltd, Luton, UK prepair@easynet.co.uk http://www.prepair.co.uk Modelling the prototype HST 1.25 (Horribly Slow Tram)? > Looks like I have a limping tram as the motors I have need 6.5GPM for > Oh I hate it when a plan suffers perpendicular mammary syndrome! > [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > Peter I've several n shed, but postage would be a bugger. However don't forget, there's no free lunches and to drive bigger pumps, you'll need bigger motors.. Tom ................................. > 4. I could use 2 x 12v batteries, even 4 x 12v batteries, but I would > like a way of recharging them. How about putting a cheap generator (£60 [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Peter Addressing just the one point. Mercedes Benz trucks (60-70s) had a parallel-series switch connected to the batteries that switched the 12v system to 24v only for starting.. A visit to a truck "breaker" might be fruitful. Tom >Addressing just the one point. >Mercedes Benz trucks (60-70s) had a parallel-series switch connected >to the batteries that switched the 12v system to 24v only for starting.. >A visit to a truck "breaker" might be fruitful. > >Tom Yup, the Mercedes 680D with the OM 4-cylinder engine was a case in point, we had one at the lighting company I worked for all those years ago, drove it down to the Greek Islands for a fdilm and back again.... Peter -- Peter & Rita Forbes Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel >>Agggh..not another person to compete with .. >>need some of the stuff myself . [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > >Peter OK, went over to High Wycombe this morning early, to miss the traffic. Found our man OK and he showed me a cupboard with lots of assorted tooling, mostly 40Int but a lot of 30Int as well. I selected a 'small pile' of 8 holders, comprising: 1 Clarkson Autolock with 9 collets and an adaptor nose for 1/4" shank tools. 2 MT adaptors, one 3MT one 2MT 2 shell cutter arbors (different sized parallel shanks) 1 shell cutter holder with cutter in place, albeit a bit worn! 1 Acramill collet holder with 1 expanding collet fitted. 1 Box of 36 expanding collets and the holder to go with them. I thought that was a reasonable collection to start with, and I paid enough money so that he was happy enough for me to go back again to buy more if required. He will deal with private buyers, and is open most Saturday mornings. It is a small one-man busines with a couple of helpers, and the prices for the machinery he had seemed quite reasonable compared with some London dealers, but that's my opinion.... He does have some 30MT to large Clarkson collet tools there, a couple if I remember correctly, and there were other boxes that I didn't look into. Contact me off-list for his details if you want to contact him direct. Peter -- Peter A Forbes Prepair Ltd, Luton, UK prepair@easynet.co.uk http://www.prepair.co.uk >He does have some 30MT to large Clarkson collet tools there, a couple >if I remember correctly, and there were other boxes that I didn't look >into. Peter Are these *large* (ie up to 1 1/4", & quite rare in 30 int) or Medium (up to 1", much more common, but for some reason often come with metric collets only) ?? I wouldn't mind picking up a Large Autolock in 30 int, I've got one but it's been in a severe crash & the shank is bent. No it wasn't me <BG>. Also I want a small autolock in QC30, you can tell these because there's a driving collar distinct from the main body, whereas the ordinary 30int autolock just has slots in the body. Either that, or imperial collets for the anonymous collet holders I do have. I think these are similar to the old C type clarkson, they have in effect a driving peg at the threaded end of the collet rather than the flanged end of the S type. Not sure what you mean by expanding collets in this context? Cheers Tim Dutton Dry-Dock Traditional & Modern canal craft repairs Vintage diesel engine service >>He does have some 30MT to large Clarkson collet tools there, a couple >>if I remember correctly, and there were other boxes that I didn't look [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >(up to 1", much more common, but for some reason often come with >metric collets only) ?? I wasn't measuring at the time, just noticed them. There were also a couple of flycutters, one of which I'll probably take later. >I wouldn't mind picking up a Large Autolock in 30 int, I've got one >but it's been in a severe crash & the shank is bent. No it wasn't me ><BG>. We believe you !! :-)) >Also I want a small autolock in QC30, you can tell these because >there's a driving collar distinct from the main body, whereas the [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >driving peg at the threaded end of the collet rather than the flanged >end of the S type. I didn't have a long sort through as Les had already dug out a small selection before I got there. >Not sure what you mean by expanding collets in this context? Like the R8 collets on this auction: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=25294&item=3872711517 >Cheers >Tim I left my spanner for the Clarkson behind, so I will be going back again. Let me have a wish list and I'll see what I can pick up. The bl**dy cat was underneath my desk on my first attempt to reply, but she trod on the mains surge arrestor/distribution board switch and cut the supply to the pc's and network! Ever seen a cat fly? boot propelled :-)) Peter -- Peter & Rita Forbes Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel >I selected a 'small pile' of 8 holders, comprising: > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >1 Acramill collet holder with 1 expanding collet fitted. >1 Box of 36 expanding collets and the holder to go with them. I had another look through the box last night, and the expanding collets are Erickson DA or Double Angle types, of 3 body size ranges, and the holder is for the largest. The smallest is the type that goes into the extension holders that Kennametal make. I'll be looking out for the next sized holder down when I go back to see Les. The sheel cutter holder with cutter in place was the smallest Clarkson Dedlock holder. Peter -- Peter A Forbes Prepair Ltd, Luton, UK prepair@easynet.co.uk http://www.prepair.co.uk Don`t know about the 30,but WNT are doing 40`s for £28-£32.Their site will either be www.wnt.com or www.wnt.co.uk regards,Mark. Just looked for WNT site,it`s actually www.wntuk.com.Annoyingly they don`t have an online catalogue. Mark RDG had some nice 30Int tooling from a UK company that closed down. I had MT adaptors, Sidelock / Weldon holders and ER collet holders from them. Steve Larner > Having just bought the Beaver turret mill, I am now on the lookout for > some [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk > Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel >Having just bought the Beaver turret mill, I am now on the lookout for some >30Int tooling for it. I have loads of 40Int for the A&S mills (1ES and 2ES) but [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > >Peter I was hoping that you two between you would come up with the idea of making a new spindle :-). The details I got from tiny Griffiths at http://www.lathes.co.uk seem to indicate that the only difference is in the spindle nose itself. Could one make an INT40 adapter to bolt onto the end of an INT30 spindle in place of the driving dogs? Mark Rand RTFM >I was hoping that you two between you would come up with the idea of making a >new spindle :-). [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > >Mark Rand Presumably it wouldn't be too difficult to make a new nose? At the worst it would be a few beer tokens... I did mention this to John S, but at the time I hadn't actually got the machine and we did discuss the ins and outs of converting the existing one if it were to be 30Int. A lot were supplied with 40Int which was an option apparently. Peter -- Peter & Rita Forbes Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel > Having just bought the Beaver turret mill, I am now on the lookout for some > 30Int tooling for it. I have loads of 40Int for the A&S mills (1ES and 2ES) but [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk > Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel 6 of one, 1/2 dozen of other, new, BT30 is cheaper out here and ETM make an adapter that allows the same drawbar to be used. Somehow I think you won't be buying new anyway...:-) Tom >> Having just bought the Beaver turret mill, I am now on the lookout for some >> 30Int tooling for it. I have loads of 40Int for the A&S mills (1ES and 2ES) but [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > >Tom Certainly not! :-)) With so much stuff coming on the market, there's no need to pay premium prices, especially with the amount of machinery being scrapped at present. Peter -- Peter & Rita Forbes Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.