Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
Home
Discussion Groups
General
ModelsRailroadsRockets
Radio Controlled
Air ModelsHelicoptersLand ModelsWater Models
ModelGeeks.com
Contact UsLink To UsSearch & Site Map

Model Forum / General / Models / December 2006



Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

How level should a lathe be?

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
zedbert@gmail.com - 14 Dec 2006 23:41 GMT
Hi all,

I'm building a shiny new bench to put my Southbend 9", and hide some of
the other crap in the garage.

I am intending to mount the lathe on some levelling screws, as per
Chris Heapy's site - large diameter, fine pitch bolts, and some large
washers. Probably going to use M10 fine, easiest thing to get hold of.

My question is: how level do I need to get it? I don't have a (working)
engineers level, and am reluctant to buy one at £20 off ebay, if I'm
only going to use it once. I have my grandfathers old wooden 'boat'
style level.

Should I 'eye' it up on grandad's woodwork level, or bite the bullet &
buy the proper thing?

Cheers,

Ed
Mark Rand - 15 Dec 2006 00:05 GMT
>Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>
>Ed

The lathe doesn't have to be level at all, it has to be straight. A precision
level is the easy way to check if the bed is twisted or not.. I used one
tonight and it took five minutes to verify that a particular lathe bed was
straight within less than half a thou in ten inches over it's entire length.
If you don't want to get a precision level, then try searching the interweb
for "rollie's dad's method". That is a re-telling of the classical method for
testing a lathe for straightness.

HTH

Mark Rand
RTFM
Peter Fairbrother - 15 Dec 2006 00:43 GMT
>> Hi all,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>
> The lathe doesn't have to be level at all, it has to be straight.

No, the bed can be twisted and it can still cut parallel.

> A precision
> level is the easy way to check if the bed is twisted or not..  I used one
> tonight and it took five minutes to verify that a particular lathe bed was
> straight within less than half a thou in ten inches over it's entire length.

Yes - but it isn't very important that the bed is untwisted unless you are
using it for milling work, or perhaps super-accurate pitch threading - and
even then a twist in the bed isn't likely to be that important.

> If you don't want to get a precision level, then try searching the interweb
> for "rollie's dad's method". That is a re-telling of the classical method for
> testing a lathe for straightness.

RDM won't test for straightness - but it will help test for parallelness of
cut. RDM is a method for calculating relative measurements to the centreline
of rotation of a lathe along different points of the bed, and these results
can be used to adjust the head to obtain parallelity of cut, so that the
centreline of rotation is equidistant from different points on the bed - but
it can't per se tell whether the bed is twisted, you need a level as well
(or instead) for that.

Imagine a lathe with a very twisted bed, so that it undergoes a quarter turn
over it's length - as long as the centreline of rotation and the axis of the
twist are in the same place it won't affect the accuracy of a facing or
turning cut at all.

It would affect eg the pitch of a cut thread - it would have 1/4 extra/less
turn over the length of the bed - but in practice twistedness doesn't matter
much, as such an extreme twist is most unlikely.

Signature

Peter Fairbrother

9

On a very remote planet, the survivors of a Raumsog cruiser were released
from internment. By special orders, direct from Earth, their memories had
been discoordinated so that they would not reveal the pattern of defeat. An
obstinate reporter kept after one spaceman. After many hour of hard drinking
the survivor's answer was the same:

"Golden the ship was - oh! oh! oh! Golden the ship was - oh! oh! oh!"

9-1: Golden The Ship Was, Oh! Oh! Oh! by Paul Linebarger

pentagrid@yahoo.com - 15 Dec 2006 07:09 GMT
>>> Hi all,
>>>
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>
>No, the bed can be twisted and it can still cut parallel.

                    *********************

In the sizes of lathe that we use the direction of gravity is
irrelelevant. It's convenient for it to be setup roughly level -
a carpenters level is more than good enough.

A bed with serious twist can only cut parallel if the axis of the
twist is coaxial with the spindle axis. This is wildly
improbable.

   The twist axis of the bed is normally pretty close the the c
of g of the bed cross section and in your lathe that will be at
least 5"displaced from the spindle axis. Because of this a very
small degree of twist will result in significant taper turn
error.

                   *************************

>> A precision
>> level is the easy way to check if the bed is twisted or not..  I used one
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>using it for milling work, or perhaps super-accurate pitch threading - and
>even then a twist in the bed isn't likely to be that important.

                   *************************

 In practice, because of the wide separation between twist axis
and spindle axis, small amounts of bed twist are important.

                   *************************

>> If you don't want to get a precision level, then try searching the interweb
>> for "rollie's dad's method". That is a re-telling of the classical method for
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>it can't per se tell whether the bed is twisted, you need a level as well
>(or instead) for that.

             *************************************

    Maybe I look at things differently - I have no real interest
in conceptual straightness .My goal is parallelism of cut so I'm
quite happy with RDM.

              *********************************

>Imagine a lathe with a very twisted bed, so that it undergoes a quarter turn
>over it's length - as long as the centreline of rotation and the axis of the
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>turn over the length of the bed - but in practice twistedness doesn't matter
>much, as such an extreme twist is most unlikely.

        **********       Jim       *************

Signature

Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Peter Fairbrother - 15 Dec 2006 17:31 GMT
[..]

>> No, the bed can be twisted and it can still cut parallel.
>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> A bed with serious twist can only cut parallel if the axis of the
> twist is coaxial with the spindle axis.

In practice the path made by a tool along a mildly twisted bed will be a
straight line for most everyday purposes, even though it is in fact a
section of a screw - align the centre of rotation with the line and it
should cut parallel.

> This is wildly improbable.
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> small degree of twist will result in significant taper turn
> error.

You are right of course. I should think more before posting after midnight.

[..]
>> RDM won't test for straightness - but it will help test for parallelness of
>> cut. RDM is a method for calculating relative measurements to the centreline
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> in conceptual straightness .My goal is parallelism of cut so I'm
> quite happy with RDM.

I agree - and RDM is probably the best way to do that.

Signature

Peter Fairbrother

Tom - 15 Dec 2006 19:08 GMT
> [..]
> >>
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
> --
> Peter Fairbrother

This is based on your experience? Or is it your "considered" opinion?

Tom

Signature

Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Peter Fairbrother - 15 Dec 2006 20:13 GMT
>> [..]
>>>>
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>
> Tom

Mostly what I have been told, eg that a lathe with a twisted bed can still
cut parallel if the head is adjusted correctly.

Which parts did you disagree with?
Charles Lamont - 15 Dec 2006 21:51 GMT
>Which parts did you disagree with?

All ;-)

Signature

Charles Lamont

Tom - 15 Dec 2006 23:02 GMT
> >> [..]
> >>>>
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
>
> Which parts did you disagree with?

Since you ask, all.

Signature

Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Wayne Weedon - 15 Dec 2006 19:23 GMT
> The lathe doesn't have to be level at all, it has to be straight. A precision
> level is the easy way to check if the bed is twisted or not.. I used one
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> for "rollie's dad's method". That is a re-telling of the classical method for
> testing a lathe for straightness.

Mark, don't bother trying to level your Hardinge when you are ready to
use it.  They don't need it ;)

If you didn't know the beds just sit (Not bolted) on three conical
rings, and the only leveling you need do it to allow the coolant to
drain properly.

Wayne..
Mark Rand - 15 Dec 2006 20:32 GMT
>> The lathe doesn't have to be level at all, it has to be straight. A precision
>> level is the easy way to check if the bed is twisted or not.. I used one
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>
>Wayne..

<PEDANT MODE>
Actually there's three bloody great studs holding it down to the stand.
</PEDANT MODE>

But they don't need the "wring down until it's straight" procedure though.

Mark Rand
RTFM
Wayne Weedon - 15 Dec 2006 20:48 GMT
> <PEDANT MODE>
> Actually there's three bloody great studs holding it down to the stand.
> </PEDANT MODE>
>
> But they don't need the "wring down until it's straight" procedure though.

Yes there are studs and nuts and washers, but normally there are
compression springs between the washers and the underside of the cabinet.

I've rebuilt quite a few ;)    I've also seen them unsettled by IDIOTS
slinging Hardinges from the bed!   They can normally lift right off the
seats before the nuts start taking the strain.

Wayne...
Malcolm Stewart - 15 Dec 2006 00:09 GMT
I'd check your granddad's level by trying it on the same surface, both ways
round, and see if the bubble lies the same distance off centre. (Perhaps
stick a mm scale alongside bubble for clarity.)
You can go further if necessary by checking the sensitivity against a known
slope.

An expensive level should have a more sensitive bubble (bigger radius arc),
but may not be set more accurately, initially.  I've got an ultra-sensitive
one using prisms to see both ends of the bubble at the same time. Almost
impossible to use outside of the theodolite from which it was taken!
Signature

M Stewart
Milton Keynes, UK

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Chris Edwards - 15 Dec 2006 09:53 GMT
>Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>
>Ed

    'Level' isn't important - lathes are used on ships at sea - but
'twist' is.  If you send me your address off list I'll lend you a level.

Best regards
--

Chris Edwards (in deepest Dorset)      "....there *must* be an easier way!"
Guy Griffin - 15 Dec 2006 15:48 GMT
> I'm building a shiny new bench to put my Southbend 9", and hide some of
> the other crap in the garage.

> My question is: how level do I need to get it? I don't have a (working)
> engineers level, and am reluctant to buy one at £20 off ebay, if I'm
> only going to use it once. I have my grandfathers old wooden 'boat'
> style level.

Like others say, no need to set the lathe level for turning. But it can
occasionally help if you also mill on your lathe; the engineer's level
can be used to set the work level & thus square to the bed faster than a
dial indicator, especially for non-flat pieces.

hth
Guy
Steve - 16 Dec 2006 10:00 GMT
> Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> Ed

What height have you selected ?

The reason is that my father visited my workshop the other day to look
over the Cromwell lathe, and he said "you can see its a precision lathe
because of the height". I had never considered this before.

The lathe centre is 44inches, the only other lathe I have on a genuine
factory stand is a pre-war Zyto (40.5 inches). I suppose the ideal
height must depend on how tall you are (or short in my case) as well as
what size of work you use it for. I've got a Winfield at 45" that came
on a Brown&Sharpe cast stand and that seems a nice height for small
work.

So is it true that lathes for precision work are always taller, in
which case a watchmakers lathe would be nose-level !

Steve
Nick Mueller - 16 Dec 2006 10:36 GMT
> So is it true that lathes for precision work are always taller, in
> which case a watchmakers lathe would be nose-level !

This is quite true. And watchmakers lathes were used sitting on a chair,
having the arms rest on the table. I've seen a photo where the operater sat
on the tailstock's end and nearly embraced the lathe (I would embrace a
Schaublin anyway).

Nick
Signature

***********************************
*** Available now in NZ and AUS ***
***********************************
       <http://www.yadro.de>

Steve - 17 Dec 2006 22:05 GMT
Ed

I don't know what you are going to make your bench of, I hope it is metal as
wood changes with the weather/humidity etc. and thus may be fine when you
set it up and all over the place 2 weeks later.  Didn't see any mention of
this.

Steve

Hi all,

I'm building a shiny new bench to put my Southbend 9", and hide some of
the other crap in the garage.

I am intending to mount the lathe on some levelling screws, as per
Chris Heapy's site - large diameter, fine pitch bolts, and some large
washers. Probably going to use M10 fine, easiest thing to get hold of.

My question is: how level do I need to get it? I don't have a (working)
engineers level, and am reluctant to buy one at £20 off ebay, if I'm
only going to use it once. I have my grandfathers old wooden 'boat'
style level.

Should I 'eye' it up on grandad's woodwork level, or bite the bullet &
buy the proper thing?

Cheers,

Ed
zedbert@gmail.com - 18 Dec 2006 13:14 GMT
Cheers for all your replies!

I'd never considered making it higher to make it more precise! Do I
need a really big height gauge as well now? LOL

The bench is made of metal, 25 x 3mm box section. Bolted to the walls &
floor, fair bit of cross bracing, probably more to come.

I shall go for grandad's level to start with - nice idea taping a scale
to it, will do. And RDM for the tune up, as it were.

Also, if anybody ever needs to know, the centres of the feet on an SB
9" are not the nice sensible 6" one would ass-u-me they are. DAMHIKT.

Ed

> Ed
>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
> Steve
pentagrid@yahoo.com - 20 Dec 2006 16:39 GMT
>Ed
>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
>Steve

      This is an interesting point.

     I had the same idea when I made the bench to carry my
Boxford ME10. I reasoned that the bench top should, as nearly as
possible, have the same expansion coefficient AND the same
thermal time constant as the lathe bed.

       With this in mind I made a sturdy wooden bench topped
with three mighty box section steel girders laid side by side and
welded together. This assembly was comparable in both weight and
torsional stiffness to the Boxford bed.

        While this achieved the original aim I hit an unexpected
problem - extreme sensitivity of the hold down bolt adjustment.
Because the welded benchtop was so torsionally stiff, a
fractional thou movement of the bolts resulted in more than a
thou taper turn which made adjustment pretty fiddly. With
patience I got a good result and the setup has remained nicely
stable over several years.

         On reflection I realise that the heavy stiff bench top
is the wrong way to go.

   There is more than meets the eye in the comparitively flimsy
sheet metal stands supplied by lathe manufacturers.Because the
sheet metal top is torsionally so much less rigid than the lathe
bed a relatively coarse hold down bolt adjustment results in a
usefully fine bed twist adjustment. The thermal time constant
mismatch is of little importance because the resultant bed twist
is a result of the spring force of the deflected metal top and
this is comparitively temperature insensitive.

                    Jim

Signature

Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2012 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.