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Model Forum / General / Models / May 2007Cheap spindle speed method
I started designing and building a digital readout for my C6 spindle speed - spent hours lost the designs and layouts. However found this on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/9999Hz-LED-Digital-Frequency-Hertz-Panel-Meter-Counter_W0Q QitemZ230090014431QQihZ013QQcategoryZ25401QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem Works out shipped at less than £20. My design was based around a tachometer disk with 60 3mm holes around then edge of a CD mounted behind the spindle pulley with an opto sensor, which scales RPM to Hertz as an output from the sensor. Put the two together and its a really quick addon. The panel meter hasn't arrived yet(!) but once installed I will post the results. Steve >I started designing and building a digital readout for my C6 spindle >speed - spent hours lost the designs and layouts. [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Steve Steve You were up early for a Sunday, That looks interesting, I will look forward to hearing how you get on. Electronics are not my thing, but I reckon even I could sort that out. Steve Sheffield >>I started designing and building a digital readout for my C6 spindle >>speed - spent hours lost the designs and layouts. [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] >Steve >Sheffield I can see the need to know speeds on a variable speed machine instead of 1 to 10 on a dial but why not just make a new dial with the measured speed on it using a hand held tacho. You only have to do it once. The problem I envisage is that the constant flicker of a digital number[s] gets on your tits after a while. I have been in many commercial workshops where the 10th's digit on the DRO's is covered with a band aid because it's annoying. Many shops had to go from 3 to 4 digits for the Bullshit 2000 certification but in reality they didn't need to. There is no reason on a lathe or mill to have an accurate speed read out only an approximation to help you select a speed for a material or job. On My CVA I manly use the 840 rev band as that's what 90% of my work needs. It's 840 revs because it says so on the dial, never been checked, it could be miles off but for the last 55 years it's been churning good work out, knowing it's accurate or 40 revs off won't alter that. . -- Regards, John Stevenson Nottingham, England. Visit the new Model Engineering adverts page at:- http://www.homeworkshop.org.uk/ >>>I started designing and building a digital readout for my C6 spindle >>>speed - spent hours lost the designs and layouts. [quoted text clipped - 59 lines] > Visit the new Model Engineering adverts page at:- > http://www.homeworkshop.org.uk/ I know. But I don't have the touch that you guys have - My experience is about 10 days a year actually on the machines. I went to see on old mate, he has an equally old Wilson which he built a workshop round. He was facing a big lump of cast iron with a carbide indexed tip tool and the finish was almost a mirror. He didn't know what speed the machine was running at other than it would not go any faster. When I asked him how he set up work in the 4jaw, he paused for quite a while then said "I just do - I can show you , but I'm struggling to say how". I have marked out the high speed range over the original plate and could mark the lower speed range too, but I've a feeling that the speed controller wanders about - it was 500rpm off at the top end when I checked it last, which buggered up my calculations for the two speed mod, so just a bit paranoid now about where its going next. (i'd planned the top speed to run to 2500 but it ended up at around 3200 which planted the seed about needing to know.) I'll be measuring to 1 rpm - if the flicker is a nuisance, I'll get the band aid out. The only reason I'm here now is because I can't find my 45degree counter sink so job stopped, which means I'm down to 9 days this year because I can't move the set up until the countersinks are done... On other hand - the lathe is free I could press on with that other project! > I started designing and building a digital readout for my C6 spindle speed - > spent hours lost the designs and layouts. [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Steve My method takes some beating for economy. Take a length od studding the longer the better. Stick it in the chuck. Put anut on it. Measure and mark a length on the studding. Start the lathe. Grab the nut and time it between the measured marks. Fron the pitch , which you should know and the time the rpm can be calculated,. As has been said absolute precision is not needed and you only have to do it once. > My method takes some beating for economy. Take a length od studding > the longer the better. Stick it in the chuck. Put anut on it. Measure > and mark a length on the studding. Start the lathe. Grab the nut and > time it between the measured marks. ... LOL! This method can't be beaten! In any field! :-)) Nick >> My method takes some beating for economy. Take a length od studding >> the longer the better. Stick it in the chuck. Put anut on it. Measure [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Nick Unless the nut grabs you back...<g> > > My method takes some beating for economy. Take a length od studding > > the longer the better. Stick it in the chuck. Put anut on it. Measure [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Nick How about? Check what gears are on the lathe, engage the leadscrew and time between marks. Russell > > > My method takes some beating for economy. Take a length od studding > > > the longer the better. Stick it in the chuck. Put anut on it. Measure [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Russell Safer, definately, wonder why I didn't think of that!!!! |
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