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Just got my first milling machine - a Centec 2A

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Cheshire Steve - 21 Apr 2008 21:24 GMT
Just collected a Centec 2A with the good vertical head and I am
strongly inclined to plug it in, but it has been in store for ages (I
am still trying to remove some of the gloop using petrol - must have
had Shellac in it). Obviously I will go over it for electrical safety
(single phase), but I wonder if anyone has commissioning advice ?

Also I don't have an arbor for the horizontal milling arm - though it
came with a stub arbor, the sort you would use on a lathe. Is there a
source for 2MT full arbors, or should I just use the stub arbor (saves
mounting the overarm anyway).

Any Centec owners that can offer advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
Steve
mark - 21 Apr 2008 22:15 GMT
> Just collected a Centec 2A with the good vertical head and I am
> strongly inclined to plug it in, but it has been in store for ages (I
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> Thanks
> Steve

my friend has a centec 2

not easy to get parts for them

john ward makes the riser blocks for them

contact here

http://www.latheparts.co.uk/

there is a yahoo group for them .....the manual is on there

the mt2 arbors are on ebay all the time

they take mt2 collets ...with 3/8 whit thread ...

these are on ebay as well ...best deal done by chester ...no postage

mates converted his with a screw type bottle jack .......as the lever
at the back of the machine is a pain to use ....

other than that they fetch a premium price when sold on ebay ......

thats what i told my friend to do .resell the thing ..and with the
money buy a better x2 or x3 with some of the money raised...rather
than buy the raiser .

best models are the ones with raiser and quil travel ...and upwards of
that .

all the best..markj
Cheshire Steve - 22 Apr 2008 00:38 GMT
> > Just collected a Centec 2A with the good vertical head and I am
> > strongly inclined to plug it in, but it has been in store for ages (I
[quoted text clipped - 43 lines]
>
> all the best..markj

Hi Mark, thanks for the info

I did think about an X2, but then everything else I have is old
British gear, and I read the lengthy list of reasons why they have to
be stripped and re-assembled from new to sort them out (see Arc Euro
trade site). So in the end I opted to keep my classic workshop theme
going, I can always upgrade at a later date.

Useful to know who makes the raising blocks. Not sure whether I will
need them yet. Quill head looks fine, table seems fine, but as you say
the micrometer round the back for raising the knee seems hardly ideal.

As for the long arbor, first place I looked was eBay and there were
none there I could see - lots with Int tapers though.

This one came with a collet holder and collets, and it will also take
my ER25 collets and holder, so there should be no problems there.

Steve
mark - 22 Apr 2008 10:53 GMT
> > > Just collected a Centec 2A with the good vertical head and I am
> > > strongly inclined to plug it in, but it has been in store for ages (I
[quoted text clipped - 65 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -

dont think the 2a came with a quill
so you got a better machine ...

there is very little room under the  head ...so your ER chuck will
take some of that up

mt2 arbor ...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-Mt-LONG-MILLING-ARBOR-Myford-Boxford-Warco-Naerok_W0QQit
emZ190064902497QQihZ009QQcategoryZ41369QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItemQQ_t
rksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247


All the best.markj
mark - 22 Apr 2008 11:02 GMT
> mt2 arbor ...
>
> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-Mt-LONG-MILLING-ARBOR-Myford-Boxford-Warco-Na...

btw .its important you ask him the size of the shaft ...what hole size
the cutters have ...

it may be something like 16mm ..your stuffed then .rare ...leave it
alone if its 16mm

go for first, a 1 inch size arbor.........

all the best.......mark
:Jerry: - 22 Apr 2008 11:12 GMT
>> mt2 arbor ...
>>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> all the best.......mark

One day you might actually learn how to write the English language,
was even simple punctuation not taught to you at school? :~(
mark - 22 Apr 2008 11:26 GMT
> >> mt2 arbor ...
>
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -
mark - 22 Apr 2008 11:31 GMT
> >> mt2 arbor ...
>
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -

ENGLISH.....

good  then

here's a few choice words

Piss Off !!
and
f.ck OFF !!

And stop wearing those tank tops and anoraks.

All is not the best..mark
:Jerry: - 22 Apr 2008 12:10 GMT
On Apr 22, 11:12 am, ":Jerry:" <INVA...@INVALID.INVALID> wrote:
> "mark" <aboard_epsi...@yahoo.com> wrote in message

<snip>

> > all the best.......mark
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -

ENGLISH.....

good  then

here's a few choice words

Piss Off !!
and
f.ck OFF !!

</quote>

So the answer is no...
Jim Guthrie - 23 Apr 2008 13:03 GMT
Steve,

>but as you say
>the micrometer round the back for raising the knee seems hardly ideal.

I've just re-jigged my workshop so that the left side of the Centec 2A
is easily reached.  That's  after living for several years with a
cupboard adjacent to the left side of the mill and almost requiring
binoculars to read the knee dial :-)

Risers for the vertical head are probably the next thing for me to get
or make, since the lack of vertical space under the quill head can be
a problem,  especially when using a Clarkson holder.

Jim.
Cheshire Steve - 23 Apr 2008 20:25 GMT
> On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 16:38:10 -0700 (PDT), Cheshire Steve
>
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
> Jim.

Hi Jim,

Just trying to think through the handle placement. With the original
design being horizontal milling, I expect that, standing at the left
side, the cutting edge should always rotate away from you and the work
be fed towards you. The two controls you need are both on that side.

I will certainly locate mine for access to two sides, but I expect
that apart from slitting, I will be using the vertical head most of
the time, and the quill feed will do the work.

I wondered about an RSJ for a riser. Milling flats top and bottom and
bolting on dovetails. It could always be stiffened by bracing between
the webs, but I suspect it would be stiff enough. It wouldn't look
very elegant though, but cheap as chips !

Steve
jlh45 - 27 Apr 2008 00:05 GMT
I've had a 2B for several years and although I look at other mills
don't think that there are any of the same size that are any better.

I use EP 80/90 oil in the quill and the gearbox, don't use grease i
the quill. Keep an eye on the oil level in the quill if it leaks lik
mine does. (Has anyone stripped and replaced the oil seals in a vertica
head as I would like to hear the pitfalls before I do mine.)

I was given the gearbox and quill oil information by a Tim Collis wh
at one time had a very nice 2A and was fount of information abou
Centecs. I've lost touch with him in recent times so if he reads thi
group maybe he will get in touch.

One way of raising the head is to mill a dovetail into the top of th
overarm. That way gives a (small) increase in clearance between the be
and the quill and allows a quick switch to horizontal milling. The onl
reason I haven't done this is I would have to knock a hole through
wall into the kitchen to get clearance behind the mill and I don't thin
that would be appreciated!

Joh

--
jlh4
littlekicker - 23 May 2008 19:16 GMT
jlh45 Wrote:
> (Has anyone stripped and replaced the oil seals in a vertical head as
> would like to hear the pitfalls before I do mine.)
> John
Hi John, my first post here... I have just stripped the quill assembl
from my vertical head, its fairly straightforward, remove the aluminu
guard from the top of the spindle (3 cap heads) and undo the top nut,
used an angle grinder spanner to fit the holes whilst holding th
spindle still with a spanner at the bottom. remove the spring and nut
Then to get the large castalated nut off I used a 5" 4 jaw chuck an
tightened gently it into the grooves, be warned this is a LEFT HAN
THREAD!!!!! now remove the 3 further cap heads on the top housing
revealed by removal of the previous spindle top guard and remove th
housing complete with bevel gear. Then remove the small hex he
grubscrew that goes into the slot on the quill just below the quil
clamp. The quill then comes out the bottom of the head. as to undoin
the bearing tention nuts, i had to make up a couple of castalate
"sockets" out of steel tube to undo them. then the spindle knocks ou
with a hide mallet. I havent obtained new oil seals yet, but here look
a good bet... http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/index.php?cPath=19_21

Angu

--
littlekicke
jlh45 - 24 May 2008 00:27 GMT
Hi Angus

Thanks for the info - just what I needed and the link to the web sit
looks really useful.

Joh

--
jlh4
David Littlewood - 22 Apr 2008 01:33 GMT
In article
<3da21645-fb0b-4e2e-92aa-f00b3949166e@s50g2000hsb.googlegroups.com>,
Cheshire Steve <oldnoccer@btinternet.com> writes
>Just collected a Centec 2A with the good vertical head and I am
>strongly inclined to plug it in, but it has been in store for ages (I
>am still trying to remove some of the gloop using petrol - must have
>had Shellac in it). Obviously I will go over it for electrical safety
>(single phase), but I wonder if anyone has commissioning advice ?

Not sure how soluble shellac is in hydrocarbon solvents (petrol,
paraffin etc.). The usual solvent in french polish is ethanol. If you
are still having trouble getting it cleaned off, try methylated spirit,
or (better, but dearer) surgical spirit. That's always assuming it was
in fact shellac, of course.

David
Signature

David Littlewood

elj221c - 22 Apr 2008 15:36 GMT
Steve,
Mark is correct that the manual is in the files section o
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/centec_milling_machines/
Unfortunately the site is not very busy but there is someone els
there who has had raising blocks made. I think they have all sold but h
may do another run. They were MUCH cheaper than the ones on the othe
site mentioned.
I have had my 2A for about five years but have yet to power it up a
I still have not finished building my workshop. Somebody else wants th
house finished first!
The  1" horizontal arbour was actually made by the PO. He did no
include a key as he thought it better the cutter spun on the arbou
rather than damage the gears if the cutter were to jam. It looks to be
straightforward turning job apart from milling the flats for th
spanner.

Roy
2A CB98

--
elj221
mark - 22 Apr 2008 15:55 GMT
> Steve,
> Mark is correct that the manual is in the files section ofhttp://groups.yahoo.com/group/centec_milling_machines/
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> elj221c's Profile:http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=37570
> View this thread:http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=853083

John Ward has the bare castings for the riser ...if you fancy doing
the machining yourself ...
for about £50

This info was given to me by himself ...
He does batches ...
When they run out ...
it may be months before he decides to do any more

anyway ...just before Christmas or there abouts , when i visited him,
he had several .

BTW .he isn't very email savvy .....he does not  have a computer at
home ......so phone is best.

all the best.markj
Cheshire Steve - 22 Apr 2008 20:09 GMT
> Steve,
> Mark is correct that the manual is in the files section ofhttp://groups.yahoo.com/group/centec_milling_machines/
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> elj221c's Profile:http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=37570
> View this thread:http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=853083

Five years ! I have only had mine a day and want to get it going. That
is true patience :-)

I have applied to the Yahoo group - though it took me four attempts to
enter a correct decoding of the distorted wording that is the anti-
spammer protection. Hopefully that will answer my questions.

I thought 8 inches between the quill and the table would be good
enough to start, but I can see how that gets rapidly eaten up. Two
inches for the ER25 and then at least another inch for the cutter, but
that still leaves 5 inches. If I need a really big gap then I can mill
in the lathe. Just so long as I don't need a big traverse and a large
gap at the same time. Only 6 5/8 inches for the horizontal spindle may
be a bit more of a problem, but then I am making small items right
now.

It will do for now.

Steve
Trevor Jones - 23 Apr 2008 00:57 GMT
>>Steve,
>>Mark is correct that the manual is in the files section ofhttp://groups.yahoo.com/group/centec_milling_machines/
[quoted text clipped - 39 lines]
>
> Steve

 I have a 2A that gets a little use. It came with the "good" vertical
head, and power feed (re-motored to run on our 110 volts) as well as a
single phase motor. It has the metal stand, and I still have the
switches and contactors for 3 phase use, buried in the base.

 I thought I paid too much for it, but, for now, would not consider
replacing it, unless something much nicer came down the pipe.

 The headspace goes fast! You start looking at all the tooling with an
eye to picking the shortest one.

 It pretty much has the same envelope, as a Sherline mill, but it was
made in a time when iron was fairly inexpensive, and these mills were
built to an indstrial standard, more than a hobby one.

 I have made a few end mill holders from drawbar thread equipped drill
shank adapters and blank end MT2 arbors.

 Usefull enough a tool to keep in the basement, where a larger machine
would not fit very well.

 I figure a riser block is in the future for the 2A, though. A couple
extra inches of headspace will allow us of a proper vise, rather than
the low profile drill press vise that lives there now.

 So far the inability to come up with a vise I like, that is an
appropriate size, has been my biggest beef with it. Small worries indeed!

 Cheers
  Trevor Jones
Cheshire Steve - 23 Apr 2008 09:04 GMT
> >>Steve,
> >>Mark is correct that the manual is in the files section ofhttp://groups.yahoo.com/group/centec_milling_machines/
[quoted text clipped - 70 lines]
>   Cheers
>    Trevor Jones

Thanks Trevor,

It seems a slightly odd combination of industrial strength castings
and modest table size, but no complaints there. I think of it more
like a hobby sized machine made to industrial standards.

What oil do you use in the box and vertical head ?

Steve
Trevor Jones - 24 Apr 2008 02:05 GMT
> It seems a slightly odd combination of industrial strength castings
> and modest table size, but no complaints there. I think of it more
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> Steve

 Dunno. The stuf that was in it when I got it, has not leaked out
enough to motivate me to search out a refill product.

 When the time comes, I'll use what I can get that comes close to
matching the specs demanded, I suppose.

 Cheers
  Trevor Jones
dm - 23 Apr 2008 09:32 GMT
I looked into getting a 2A with a  quill feed but they proved very expensive
for such a small mill, (the last two went on ebay for £650+ )  and so I went
for an complete Elliott 00 although I will have to engineer a micrometer
feed for the quill. I got what I thought was a reasonable deal. Even so
another Elliott 00 in now on ebay with the horizontal support , arbor ,
quill stop assembly, and top cover missing    is already passing the £310
mark with 4 days to go. Some Old metal commands a  vast premium  (the
smaller it is the much more costly per Kg) yet others equally or even more
capable do not.

               Derek (A Barker not a Myford owner)

> >>Steve,
> >>Mark is correct that the manual is in the files section ofhttp://groups.yahoo.com/group/centec_milling_machines/
[quoted text clipped - 70 lines]
>   Cheers
>    Trevor Jones
John Blakeley - 23 Apr 2008 23:00 GMT
>>> Steve,
>>> Mark is correct that the manual is in the files section
[quoted text clipped - 65 lines]
>  Cheers
>   Trevor Jones

Steve

I would try to get a full arbour. I have used a stub on mine but having
the support of the overarm makes a big difference to rigidity. The stub
can handle slitting saws but I had a half-inch wide side and face
running last night. Not something I'd want to do with a stub arbour.

Clamping the job to directly to the table helps with the lack of elbow
room. Having said that I got one of the raiser blocks talked about in an
earlier reply and it has made a big difference to the machine. Just
changing to horizontal milling without having to take the vertical head
off speeds things up no end. Now with the extra room I am on the same
hunt as Trevor for as decent vice - top of the list for Harrogate.

Mine came with a huge three phase motor that the previous owner was
running on a straight forward single phase supply. He was on fuses, as
soon as I turned it on my trips fell about laughing. I had a spare
2800rpm three phase which went in without any hassle so the Centec now
shares a variable drive with the lathe, the 2800rpm giving a useful
speed range.

I have turned mine 90deg. so I operate it from the LH. side as it were;
works well for me. I could be tempted to get rid of it but only if a
later, larger Centec came up at the right price.

Hope you enjoy using it once it's clean.

Cheers
John Blakeley
Cheshire Steve - 23 Apr 2008 23:15 GMT
> Hope you enjoy using it once it's clean.
>
> Cheers
> John Blakeley

Oh I will enjoy it John .. I have been waiting for this. I have a
queue of jobs. I am very happy to have it. And being 2MT I have a lot
of tooling ready to go. Just need to make some t-nuts, and sort out
the oiling and wiring and bingo..off we go.

Steve
campingstoveman - 27 Apr 2008 11:59 GMT
Gentlemen,

I bought a Centec 2 last year for a princely sum of £60 its in Horizontal
mode which to me is not a problem as I have a milldrill to do vertical work.
It also came with sales literature and a 20000 rpm grinding head attachment
which I have not tried yet.

Martin P

> Just collected a Centec 2A with the good vertical head and I am
> strongly inclined to plug it in, but it has been in store for ages (I
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> Thanks
> Steve
 
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