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Sharpening carbide drill bit

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Dave Baker - 11 May 2008 12:43 GMT
Got a call out yesterday to a mate with a stuck locking wheel nut stopping
him changing a flat tyre. Looks like the gorillas at the tyre fitting place
he'd last been to had torqued everything up to several hundred foot lbs. The
first wheel nut key had just snapped in half trying to get it out and the
£25 replacement from Vauxhall was having no more luck. The AA had been
round, tried every tool in the van and failed miserably and then in
desperation they'd hammered a socket onto it without stopping to think that
would only spin because the bolt had a rotating collar on it to prevent
pikey car wheel thieves doing just that. So we now had a stuck bolt plus a
socket stuck on it filling the hole in the wheel and preventing any other
tool getting anywhere near the job. Nothing would persuade the socket to
come back off. I even tried welding a hook to it and levering that with a
6ft crowbar but it eventually just snapped the hook off.

To add to the woes the bolt was hardened steel. I managed to drill a pilot
hole through it with my only carbide drill, a 5mm one, but trying to open
that up with bigger HSS bits was getting nowhere. Carbide porting burs were
just being blunted without making much progress and after scrapping a £30
one I gave up on that too. I tried making more pilot holes around the
original one with the carbide drill but the odd shaped end to the bolt where
the key fits meant I was trying to drill into an interrupted shape rather
than solid metal and in the end I snapped a flute off the end of the drill.
Finally I managed to weld into a hole about 1 inch deep through the inside
of the nut to tack it to the rotating collar with my MIG and got the socket
and collar off. Next step was to try and weld a nut to the remains of the
bolt but my little MIG didn't have the grunt to really stick the two
together. In the end I hammered another socket onto what was left and it
came out :) Only took 5 hours.

So I'm left with a buggered carbide drill bit which used to come in really
handy for pilot holes in tough jobs. It's always much easier opening up a
starter hole than trying to drill from scratch with HSS in nasty materials.
A new one is only about a tenner but I'm hoping to get it reground. However
it would need shortening by about 5mm due to the missing flute on one side.
I reckon I can clean it up somewhere nearer on my diamond wheel but I'm crap
at hand sharpening drills and they always pull to one side after I'm done
with them.

So does anyone have a diamond wheel drill sharpener who could finish it off
for me or know of a place who would do it without it costing as much as a
new bit?

Second question. I was really struggling to weld things as big as a socket
or a 19mm nut to a big bolt with my little MIG. Everything was glowing
yellow hot inside the job but not actually sticking together. Maybe chrome
plated sockets and zinc coated nuts are not ideal things to weld together
but there was little I could do about that. In the workshop it seems to cope
with smaller stuff like welding a 13mm nut to a stuck 8mm stud which what I
mainly use it for.

I think I either need a bigger MIG or a stick welder for stuff as big as
wheel bolts or should I still have been able to do it if the materials had
been nicer to weld to? It didn't need any fancy welding - just enough
adhesion to stick the two things together well enough to get the bolt out
with a socket bar. Comments/suggestions?
Signature

Dave Baker
Puma Race Engines

JG - 11 May 2008 13:16 GMT
from "Dave Baker"

> Got a call out yesterday to a mate with a stuck locking wheel nut stopping
> him changing a flat tyre. Looks like the gorillas at the tyre fitting place
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> come back off. I even tried welding a hook to it and levering that with a
> 6ft crowbar but it eventually just snapped the hook off.

Sorry I haven't got any real answers for you Dave but I had a similar
problem last year which took 4 days to sort!
After failing to get the locking nut off on Saturday afternoon the AA
recovered me 135miles, arranged for another operator to come out on the
Monday and set up a free rental car. This second AA man told me that 40%
of his time was spent trying to remove locking nuts!

The idea of soft locking nuts with only 3mm depth of security "shape"
where the hardened socket simply rips it off seems so stupid that when
my garage eventually got the thing off I told him not to replace them!

JG
Dave Baker - 11 May 2008 13:30 GMT
> Sorry I haven't got any real answers for you Dave but I had a similar
> problem last year which took 4 days to sort!
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> where the hardened socket simply rips it off seems so stupid that when
> my garage eventually got the thing off I told him not to replace them!

You're not wrong. The security shape is just plain f***in stupid on these
Vauxhall ones. There's even a touch of relief angle on the key too so it
just tries to cam out as you apply torque to it and it is indeed only about
3mm deep. Hard bolts and soft key on this though so the entire security
shape on the key had ripped off on the first one. The second one just cammed
out when I tried it on the bolts on the other wheels so I didn't even bother
any further. A garage can do it with an impact gun and then my mate will
change them all for std bolts or better aftermarket locking ones.

If I can't get a bolt out with these keys with 30 years experience of
working on cars I don't rate most owners chances very high if they get a
flat out in the middle of nowhere. The ones I've had in the past with three
hardened pins work better and those on my Focus cause me no problems. The
Vauxhall ones just have a sort of cloverleaf shape made out of metal with
only about 1mm wall thickness and 3mm depth. Such a stupid design it pretty
much beggars belief.
Signature

Dave Baker
Puma Race Engines

Peter Neill - 11 May 2008 18:22 GMT
>> Sorry I haven't got any real answers for you Dave but I had a similar
>> problem last year which took 4 days to sort!
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
>only about 1mm wall thickness and 3mm depth. Such a stupid design it pretty
>much beggars belief.

Conversely, the locking nuts on my Discovery seem to be harder than
the socket, and I've gone through 2 special unlocking sockets in 5
years, as the 'pin' inside these appears to be mild steel.

I keep a spare handy now as these are special order patterns and not
stocked.

Peter
Mark Rand - 11 May 2008 18:44 GMT
>If I can't get a bolt out with these keys with 30 years experience of
>working on cars I don't rate most owners chances very high if they get a
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>only about 1mm wall thickness and 3mm depth. Such a stupid design it pretty
>much beggars belief.

I don't like them and my current '98 Vectra has even got one wheel buggered
where a previous garage removed one with a die grinder. But if the bolts are
done up to the correct torque (81 lb ft in my case), they work perfectly.

<RANT>
The only thing that is achieved by the kwikfit gorillas and their impact
wrenches is to increase the chance that a bolt or stud is going to break one
day, followed by the others and lead to deaths. There is a torque wrench with
17mm socket in the back of my car. It is there to be used!
</RANT>

Mark Rand
RTFM
the wizard - 11 May 2008 20:55 GMT
> Got a call out yesterday to a mate with a stuck locking wheel nut stopping
> him changing a flat tyre. Looks like the gorillas at the tyre fitting place
[quoted text clipped - 54 lines]
> Dave Baker
> Puma Race Engines

Hi Dave
As no one else has offered help, I shall step in. I note you are only
5 miles from Bert's old shop, in which direction? E-mail me your
address and I'll pick up your drill bit, will a four facet grind do?
T.W.
Dave Baker - 12 May 2008 03:42 GMT
Out of curiosity I typed "mig welding thick metal" into Google and
astonishingly the top hit was a test of my actual machine, a Clarke EN90.

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/clarke-90.htm

Looks like I was pissing into the wind trying to weld a 19mm nut to a large
bolt down a 1 inch blind hole in poor conditions with hardened and plated
steel with a 90 amp welder. The machine is claimed to handle metal up to 4mm
thick but won't actually penetrate anything deeper than 2mm mild steel
sheet. Even then it took 15mm of weld length before it had generated enough
heat to penetrate fully. Still that's good enough for the occasional car
body repair which is what I originally bought it for many years ago.
Signature

Dave Baker
Puma Race Engines

 
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