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Sticking brass to mild steel

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anotherid - 29 Jul 2008 17:42 GMT
What's the best glue for sticking brass to mild steel? Super-glue
Araldite?

Brenda

--
anotheri
dave sanderson - 29 Jul 2008 18:50 GMT
> What's the best glue for sticking brass to mild steel? Super-glue?
> Araldite?
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> anotherid's Profile:http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=80362
> View this thread:http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=901037

Can you braze what ever it is? might be better than glue. otherwise
without knowing the
application or any more details I will hazard a guess that an expoy
will do.

Dave
jackary - 29 Jul 2008 20:43 GMT
On 29 Jul, 18:50, dave sanderson <david.sander...@bem.fki-et.com>
wrote:

> > What's the best glue for sticking brass to mild steel? Super-glue?
> > Araldite?
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>
> Dave

What about old fashioned soft solder?
Alan
Stephen Howard - 29 Jul 2008 22:26 GMT
>What's the best glue for sticking brass to mild steel? Super-glue?
>Araldite?

Normally I'd solder it in place ( silver solder for strength, soft for
a quick job ) - but if access is limited or the application of heat
might damage something you might try JB Weld ( a sort of tough epoxy
resin ).

I used this stuff to stick a brass tube filled with wadding onto the
cover of my Land Rover's Fairey overdrive - the vent hole would spray
out a fine mist of gear oil which eventually ended up all over the
rear of the vehicle. It stayed put for years and eventually had to be
knocked off with a hammer when the overdrive was removed.

Regards,

Signature

Stephen Howard - Woodwind repairs & period restorations
http://www.shwoodwind.co.uk
Emails to: showard{who is at}shwoodwind{dot}co{dot}uk

anotherid - 29 Jul 2008 23:01 GMT
I confess I'd overlooked the possibility of soldering (though I'm no
very good at it). I might go that route, else it'll be an epoxy.

Thanks.

Brenda

--
anotheri
Stephen Howard - 29 Jul 2008 23:50 GMT
>I confess I'd overlooked the possibility of soldering (though I'm not
>very good at it). I might go that route, else it'll be an epoxy.

If you gave us some idea of the application/dimensions we might
collectively be able to come up with some additional pointers.

Regards,

Signature

Stephen Howard - Woodwind repairs & period restorations
http://www.shwoodwind.co.uk
Emails to: showard{who is at}shwoodwind{dot}co{dot}uk

etpm@whidbey.com - 30 Jul 2008 00:23 GMT
>I confess I'd overlooked the possibility of soldering (though I'm not
>very good at it). I might go that route, else it'll be an epoxy.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Brendan

To really make sure the epoxy sticks to the brass as well as possible
it helps to use a handheld stainless wire brush to brush clean the
surface after the epoxy is applied. This works for aluminum as well.
When the brush scrapes off the oxide coating it helps the epoxy wet
the surface and the epoxy keeps the air away and prevents a new
coating from forming. BTW, the newest Boeing plane has a composite
skin. Composites abound in the new plane. Usually a new plane design
is tested to failure in several areas. The wings are pulled up until
they catastrophically fail. From my friends who work at Boeing the
word is that the new composite wings have far exceeded the calculated
maximum stress where failure should occur. So far the wings have not
been destroyed because the flexing has so far exceeded the design and
calculated failure point. Word is that some folks think it's not
needed but I bet that they will ultimately be stressed to the breaking
point if only to see where they really fail and for bragging rights.
ERS
Cliff Ray - 30 Jul 2008 01:37 GMT
> BTW, the newest Boeing plane has a composite
> skin. Composites abound in the new plane. Usually a new plane design
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> point if only to see where they really fail and for bragging rights.
> ERS

Is that not very worrying? If they are so far out on the calculated
failure point, are they not just as likely to have made mistakes the
other way in parts of the design? At the very least the wings must be
more expensive and heavier than they need to be.
etpm@whidbey.com - 30 Jul 2008 02:42 GMT
> > BTW, the newest Boeing plane has a composite
>> skin. Composites abound in the new plane. Usually a new plane design
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>other way in parts of the design? At the very least the wings must be
>more expensive and heavier than they need to be.
Actually, I was wondering the same thing. Is it really that overbuilt?
This plane was designed completely on computers, no wind tunnel stuff
and the like first. The first plane of this magnitude to be done this
way. I'll bet that by the time my friends told me about it the facts
had been filtered through so many people that the truth is somewhere
unknown. I do know that the wings were flexed was past what aluminum
wings can take and they did not fail. And that they did exceed design
strength. At the same time they are apparently stiffer than aluminum
wings.
ERS
Tony Jeffree - 30 Jul 2008 08:46 GMT
>From my friends who work at Boeing the
>word is that the new composite wings have far exceeded the calculated
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>needed but I bet that they will ultimately be stressed to the breaking
>point if only to see where they really fail and for bragging rights.

If that is really the case, then they've over-engineered them & they
will probably be looking into reducing the weight.

Regards,
Tony
Tim Leech - 30 Jul 2008 09:46 GMT
>>From my friends who work at Boeing the
>>word is that the new composite wings have far exceeded the calculated
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>If that is really the case, then they've over-engineered them & they
>will probably be looking into reducing the weight.

....except that, if it's 'new technology', they'll perhaps be anxious
to keep it a bit on the over-engineered side until it's been proved in
service. They wouldn't want a Comet-style series of failures.
I thought I had read somewhere, a few months ago, that the project was
a bit behind schedule because they were having to sort out issues with
the attachment of wings to fuselage.

Tim
rsss - 31 Jul 2008 14:56 GMT
Tony Jeffree Wrote:

> >From my friends who work at Boeing the
> >word is that the new composite wings have far exceeded the calculated
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> Regards,
> Tony

It's a little more complicated than that.

Both the Boeing and the Airbus wings have been tested far beyond th
maximum stress expected on the wings, more or less the point wher
either the wing, the fuselage or the passengers would have failed.

If I remember correctly the safety factor is Maximum *1.5. The Airbu
designs  failed at around the critical point (actually slightly below i
but within 3%)  The Airbus wing flexed 7.4 metres before rupturing.
http://www.cs.york.ac.uk/hise/safety-critical-archive/2006/0031.html

I remember reading somewhere (High Performance Composites?) that
Boeing design had had a similar failure.

The design problem is enormous, whereas one can look as a piece o
aluminium as a single piece, the equivalent composite part may b
mutiple layer of a material in a matrix . Each layer may be laid at
different angle and where the material is woven, there is a stress poin
whereever one thread crosses another.

So instead of the fairly precise data that is available to the meta
engineer, one has to work with approximations of behaviour.

Another problem is that effectively you 'create' the material ever
time you make a component part.  Imagine if you had to mix, melt, rol
and treat and test every piece of aluminium instead of relying on th
manufacturer to do so. Indeed the Americans have the AGATE databas
which defines how to put the various materials and resins together t
make a standard material and the various figures that one can use fo
that material to avoid some of the problems.

So 'overengineered' is a relative term, given the large variable
possible and the many modes of failure that have been identified

--
rss
etpm@whidbey.com - 31 Jul 2008 20:23 GMT
>Tony Jeffree Wrote:
>>
[quoted text clipped - 46 lines]
>So 'overengineered' is a relative term, given the large variables
>possible and the many modes of failure that have been identified.

I've seen video of composite wings being laid up. They use a big CNC
device which applies the fabric in strips in a certain pattern. The
machine lays down the fabric remarkably fast. The angle of the fabric
changes depending on which layer it is and where on the wing it is. So
the effector at the end of the arm applying the fabric is constantly
turning. 5 degrees of freedom, or maybe 6. There are the X,Y,&Z axes
along with roll and yaw. Maybe tilt too. And different weaves are used
also. Must be hard to get all the bugs out the first time.
ERS
the wizard - 30 Jul 2008 10:52 GMT
> I confess I'd overlooked the possibility of soldering (though I'm not
> very good at it). I might go that route, else it'll be an epoxy.
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> anotherid's Profile:http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=80362
> View this thread:http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=901037

Hi Brendan
If you are not confident to solder, have you consideed solder paint.
This is a very useful mix of powered solder and flux, you just brush
on the prepared surfaces and heat till the solder melts. It is not too
good at gap filling but at least it will tin the surfaces ready for
stick solder.
Cup alloys (NCEASC) sell it in little pots quite cheaply., other
suppliers you will have to check that they are not selling you
"soldering paste" which is often just a flux.
T.W.
the wizard - 30 Jul 2008 10:57 GMT
> > I confess I'd overlooked the possibility of soldering (though I'm not
> > very good at it). I might go that route, else it'll be an epoxy.
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> "soldering paste" which is often just a flux.
> T.W.

Further to my last;   http://www.cupalloys.co.uk/6040-tin-lead-solder-paint-45-gm-i49.html
T.W.
John Blakeley - 30 Jul 2008 17:55 GMT
>>> I confess I'd overlooked the possibility of soldering (though I'm not
>>> very good at it). I might go that route, else it'll be an epoxy.
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> Further to my last;   http://www.cupalloys.co.uk/6040-tin-lead-solder-paint-45-gm-i49.html
> T.W.

Cheaper here...

http://www.frost.co.uk/productList.asp?catID=29&frostCat=Fillers

John
the wizard - 30 Jul 2008 21:21 GMT
> >>> I confess I'd overlooked the possibility of soldering (though I'm not
> >>> very good at it). I might go that route, else it'll be an epoxy.
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -

Arhh yes, but cheaper than here;
 http://bhinone.farnell.com/jsp/search2/browse.jsp?N=401&Ntk=gensearch_001&Ntt=so
lder+paint&Ntx=&_requestid=570525


T.W.
anotherid - 31 Jul 2008 11:33 GMT
Thanks for all the info, chaps. I went with Araldite, when it's set I'l
give it a whirl and see how things hold up. I'll look into the solde
stuff and maybe have a practise on some scrap.

The "thing" was just a clamping plate, steel to steel and I wanted
bit of brass inbetween to avoid too much marking of surfaces. Will ther
be more friction between brass and steel than there would be betwee
steel and steel? Unlike surface materials do something friction-wise
but I can't remember what!

Brenda

--
anotheri
Tony Jeffree - 31 Jul 2008 11:47 GMT
> Will there
>be more friction between brass and steel than there would be between
>steel and steel? Unlike surface materials do something friction-wise,
>but I can't remember what!

There will be less - see:

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/friction-coefficients-d_778.html

Steel to Steel coeff 0.8, steel to brass 0.35 for dry surfaces.
However, much less and almost the same if grease/oil is present.

I would suspect the coeff. will be less for "engraving brass"/steel.
(i.e., leaded brass, as used in clockmaking).

Regards,
Tony
dave sanderson - 31 Jul 2008 13:45 GMT
> Thanks for all the info, chaps. I went with Araldite, when it's set I'll
> give it a whirl and see how things hold up. I'll look into the solder
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Brendan

Unalike materials are generally used in sliding things to ensure that
the
easier one to replace wears faster than the harder one to replace
(assuming the designer was awake at the time of design)

Dave
Norman Billingham - 29 Jul 2008 22:50 GMT
> What's the best glue for sticking brass to mild steel? Super-glue?
> Araldite?
>
> Brendan

If it has to be glue rather than solder then use epoxy but make sure the
surfaces are completely clean and don't touch them between cleaning and
applying the adhesive.  If you can heat the parts to about 100C for an hour
or so once the epoxy has initially hardened, then the joint wil be even
stronger.  Adhesive jointing is even more sensitive than soldering to
surface cleanliness.

About 60% of the skin of a Boeing 747 is held together by adhesive bonding -
mostly epoxy.
 
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