Superelevation
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Just zis Guy, you know? - 12 Apr 2004 21:12 GMT What's the simplest way to do superelevation? And what sort of amount would you apply to a 48" radius on a 00 layout?
Thanks
 Signature Guy === May contain traces of irony. Contents liable to settle after posting. http://www.chapmancentral.co.uk
88% of helmet statistics are made up, 65% of them at Washington University
Gregory Procter - 12 Apr 2004 21:38 GMT > What's the simplest way to do superelevation? And what sort of amount > would you apply to a 48" radius on a 00 layout? Put some cardboard under the sleepers on the outside as far as the outer rail.
You could get carried away and have (say) three pieces so that the sleepers are supported at 4 positions across their width, but one piece works for me with proper ballasting.
The prototype formulas for superelevation don't work for our models because we use incredibly sharp curves. 3mm (1/8") superelevation is about the upper limit, while anything less than 1mm just isn't visible.
Regards, Greg.P.
Just zis Guy, you know? - 13 Apr 2004 18:52 GMT >Put some cardboard under the sleepers on the outside as far as the outer rail. OK, thanks - cardboard and matchsticks sound like the Cunning Plan.
 Signature Guy === May contain traces of irony. Contents liable to settle after posting. http://www.chapmancentral.co.uk
88% of helmet statistics are made up, 65% of them at Washington University
Gregory Procter - 13 Apr 2004 20:49 GMT > >Put some cardboard under the sleepers on the outside as far as the outer rail. > > OK, thanks - cardboard and matchsticks sound like the Cunning Plan. I built my first narrow gauge feeder line using cardboard and matchsticks - looked good but ran poorly!
Regards, Greg.P.
John Sullivan - 13 Apr 2004 08:06 GMT >What's the simplest way to do superelevation? Depends. I have been known to put thin wire under the outside of the curve to lift it up. I used "layout wire", which in my opinion is not suitable for much else.
> And what sort of amount >would you apply to a 48" radius on a 00 layout? None.
>Thanks
 Signature John Sullivan OO in the garden http://www.yddraiggoch.demon.co.uk/railway/railway.html My next project: Extend the layout back up the other side of the garden.
Roger T. - 13 Apr 2004 09:15 GMT "John Sullivan"
> > And what sort of amount > >would you apply to a 48" radius on a 00 layout? > > None. I superelevate all mainline trackage, regardless of radius. It looks so much better when stock leans to the inside of the curve.
I use 60thou styrene cut into thinnish strips under the outside edge of the ties (sleepers) which is then painted my basic earth colour, to hide any white that may show, and then, after test running the line for a bit, ballast.
BTW, ballast first, then add scenery. Stops the ballast from showing up over the scenery, which is what happens if you scenic first, then ballast.
-- Cheers Roger T.
Home of the Great Eastern Railway http://www.highspeedplus.com/~rogertra/
John Sullivan - 13 Apr 2004 10:32 GMT >"John Sullivan" > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > >I superelevate all mainline trackage, regardless of radius. Excuse me, Mr T., but <panto> Oh no you don't </panto>
In my not-so-humble opinion, tangent (i.e. straight) track with superelevation looks a bit ridiculous.
> It looks so >much better when stock leans to the inside of the curve. True
>I use 60thou styrene cut into thinnish strips under the outside edge of the >ties (sleepers) which is then painted my basic earth colour, to hide any [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >BTW, ballast first, then add scenery. Stops the ballast from showing up >over the scenery, which is what happens if you scenic first, then ballast. Strange how the prototype railways haven't cottoned on to this idea :-)
>-- >Cheers >Roger T. > >Home of the Great Eastern Railway >http://www.highspeedplus.com/~rogertra/
 Signature John Sullivan OO in the garden http://www.yddraiggoch.demon.co.uk/railway/railway.html My next project: Extend the layout back up the other side of the garden.
Steve Magee - 13 Apr 2004 15:22 GMT > Excuse me, Mr T., but > <panto> > Oh no you don't > </panto> <panto> Oh, yes he does </panto>
Sorry. Couldn't resist, what with my mum being English and all... :)
Steve Newcastle (not-on-Tyne)
Chris Wilson - 13 Apr 2004 18:03 GMT I used matchsticks placed lengthways under the outside rail, then just filled up the gap underneath with ballast. Cheep and cheerful and I know that the engineers amongst us will holding their heads in horror but it worked for me ... and most importantly it stopped trainee driver Edward (aged 6 at the time) derailing Hogwarts Castle and sending it in a death ride over the edge of the table.
 Signature All the best,
Chris Wilson
That's cwilson at britwar with a dot uk and dot co on the end. (Reply address is blackholed) http://www.britwar.co.uk - British Wargames http://www.the-dormouse.org - The Dormouse Line Model Railway
gppsoftware@gppsoftware.com - 27 May 2004 00:42 GMT Guy, Personally, I feel that any method of track canting which involves slipping something under the ends of sleepers is doomed to failure because over time, sleepers have a tendency to 'curl' and cause gauge narrowing. It also suggests that the elevation is an afterthought. The best way to implement canting is to build the trackbed with it already built in. I have done this on my layout by using ply for the width of a trackbed with 3mm MDF tucked under the edge. You don't want anything more than 3mm because in OO scale, this represents pretty much the maximum can't a real UK railway would be permitted to have. Remember that at the scale we model, can't would not be implemented on our unprototypical radii anyway! The two pictures below show the effect: http://www.brma.asn.au/gallery/TCH/x_06.jpg http://www.brma.asn.au/gallery/TCH/x_13.jpg Remember that you need a transition between canted track and straight track. This should be a fair bit longer than your longest vehicle because while the cant is unwinding, the track is also twisting: you don't want to introduce to much twist. Also remember that when a curve approaches a straight, it does not change from curve radius directly to a straight: the transition is a length of track where the radius progressively becomes tighter as one moves from straight to curve. On my layout we used real modern prototype CAD systems do design this. To be honest, I can't remember whether we used cubic parabola formulea or spiral calculations, but in model form, one wouldn't notice the difference.
Graham Plowman
newman - 27 May 2004 09:53 GMT > Guy, > Personally, I feel that any method of track canting which involves [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > > Graham Plowman You can't use an apostophe with cant
newman - 27 May 2004 09:55 GMT > > Guy, > > Personally, I feel that any method of track canting which involves [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > > You can't use an apostophe with cant And you can't spell apostrophe without an 'r'
Gregory Procter - 30 May 2004 00:22 GMT > > Guy, > > Personally, I feel that any method of track canting which involves [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > > You can't use an apostophe with cant You cant?
MartinS - 30 May 2004 02:34 GMT >> > Guy, >> > Personally, I feel that any method of track canting which [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > > You cant? Unless it is your wont.
 Signature Martin S.
Terry Flynn - 28 May 2004 04:43 GMT > Guy, > Personally, I feel that any method of track canting which involves [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > > Graham Plowman The method of slipping something under the ends of sleepers is easy and works fine. I have done this on my layout, and even on sections were ballasting is not complete, no problems have arisen due to under gauge track. If the ballast is solid, and glued down, the track is going to keep its gauge without much variation. Even if the track goes under gauge your curves have to be small, before under gauge becomes a problem. On scale curves you can have a track of 16.2mm for H0/00 without any problems.
Nice layout Graham.
 Signature Terry Flynn
For HO scale track standards go to http://angelfire.com/clone/rail/index.html also includes details of HO wagon weight and locomotive tractive effort estimates
Gregory Procter - 30 May 2004 00:25 GMT > > Guy, > > Personally, I feel that any method of track canting which involves [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > curves have to be small, before under gauge becomes a problem. On scale > curves you can have a track of 16.2mm for H0/00 without any problems. I slip two half thickness "somethings" under my sleepers so that the center and the inner and outer ends are supported. I figure that by the time I have ballasted and before the sag begins the entire sleeper will be supported.
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