Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
Home
Discussion Groups
General
ModelsRailroadsRockets
Radio Controlled
Air ModelsHelicoptersLand ModelsWater Models
ModelGeeks.com
Contact UsLink To UsSearch & Site Map

Model Forum / General / Railroads / May 2004



Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

Superelevation

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
Just zis Guy, you know? - 12 Apr 2004 21:12 GMT
What's the simplest way to do superelevation?  And what sort of amount
would you apply to a 48" radius on a 00 layout?

Thanks

Signature

Guy
===
May contain traces of irony.  Contents liable to settle after posting.
http://www.chapmancentral.co.uk

88% of helmet statistics are made up, 65% of them at Washington University

Gregory Procter - 12 Apr 2004 21:38 GMT
> What's the simplest way to do superelevation?  And what sort of amount
> would you apply to a 48" radius on a 00 layout?

Put some cardboard under the sleepers on the outside as far as the outer rail.

You could get carried away and have (say) three pieces so that the sleepers
are supported at 4 positions across their width, but one piece works for me
with proper ballasting.

The prototype formulas for superelevation don't work for our models because we
use incredibly sharp curves. 3mm (1/8") superelevation is about the upper
limit, while anything less than 1mm just isn't visible.

Regards,
Greg.P.
Just zis Guy, you know? - 13 Apr 2004 18:52 GMT
>Put some cardboard under the sleepers on the outside as far as the outer rail.

OK, thanks - cardboard and matchsticks sound like the Cunning Plan.

Signature

Guy
===
May contain traces of irony.  Contents liable to settle after posting.
http://www.chapmancentral.co.uk

88% of helmet statistics are made up, 65% of them at Washington University

Gregory Procter - 13 Apr 2004 20:49 GMT
> >Put some cardboard under the sleepers on the outside as far as the outer rail.
>
> OK, thanks - cardboard and matchsticks sound like the Cunning Plan.

I built my first narrow gauge feeder line using cardboard and matchsticks - looked
good but ran poorly!

Regards,
Greg.P.
John Sullivan - 13 Apr 2004 08:06 GMT
>What's the simplest way to do superelevation?

Depends. I have been known to put thin wire under the outside of the
curve to lift it up. I used "layout wire", which in my opinion is not
suitable for much else.

> And what sort of amount
>would you apply to a 48" radius on a 00 layout?

None.

>Thanks

Signature

John Sullivan
OO in the garden http://www.yddraiggoch.demon.co.uk/railway/railway.html
My next project: Extend the layout back up the other side of the garden.

Roger T. - 13 Apr 2004 09:15 GMT
"John Sullivan"

> > And what sort of amount
> >would you apply to a 48" radius on a 00 layout?
>
> None.

I superelevate all mainline trackage, regardless of radius.  It looks so
much better when stock leans to the inside of the curve.

I use 60thou styrene cut into thinnish strips under the outside edge of the
ties (sleepers) which is then painted my basic earth colour, to hide any
white that may show, and then, after test running the line for a bit,
ballast.

BTW, ballast first, then add scenery.  Stops the ballast from showing up
over the scenery, which is what happens if you scenic first, then ballast.

--
Cheers
Roger T.

Home of the Great Eastern Railway
http://www.highspeedplus.com/~rogertra/
John Sullivan - 13 Apr 2004 10:32 GMT
>"John Sullivan"
>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
>I superelevate all mainline trackage, regardless of radius.

Excuse me, Mr T., but
<panto>
Oh no you don't
</panto>

In my not-so-humble opinion, tangent (i.e. straight) track with
superelevation looks a bit ridiculous.

> It looks so
>much better when stock leans to the inside of the curve.

True

>I use 60thou styrene cut into thinnish strips under the outside edge of the
>ties (sleepers) which is then painted my basic earth colour, to hide any
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>BTW, ballast first, then add scenery.  Stops the ballast from showing up
>over the scenery, which is what happens if you scenic first, then ballast.

Strange how the prototype railways haven't cottoned on to this idea :-)

>--
>Cheers
>Roger T.
>
>Home of the Great Eastern Railway
>http://www.highspeedplus.com/~rogertra/

Signature

John Sullivan
OO in the garden http://www.yddraiggoch.demon.co.uk/railway/railway.html
My next project: Extend the layout back up the other side of the garden.

Steve Magee - 13 Apr 2004 15:22 GMT
> Excuse me, Mr T., but
> <panto>
> Oh no you don't
> </panto>

<panto>
Oh, yes he does
</panto>

Sorry. Couldn't resist, what with my mum being English and all... :)

Steve
Newcastle (not-on-Tyne)
Chris Wilson - 13 Apr 2004 18:03 GMT
I used matchsticks placed lengthways under the outside rail, then just
filled up the gap underneath with ballast. Cheep and cheerful and I know
that the engineers amongst us will holding their heads in horror but it
worked for me ... and most importantly it stopped trainee driver Edward
(aged 6 at the time) derailing Hogwarts Castle and sending it in a death
ride over the edge of the table.

Signature

All the best,

Chris Wilson

That's cwilson at britwar with a dot uk and dot co on the end. (Reply
address is blackholed)
http://www.britwar.co.uk - British Wargames
http://www.the-dormouse.org - The Dormouse Line Model Railway

gppsoftware@gppsoftware.com - 27 May 2004 00:42 GMT
Guy,
Personally, I feel that any method of track canting which involves
slipping something under the ends of sleepers is doomed to failure
because over time, sleepers have a tendency to 'curl' and cause gauge
narrowing. It also suggests that the elevation is an afterthought.
The best way to implement canting is to build the trackbed with it
already built in. I have done this on my layout by using ply for the
width of a trackbed with 3mm MDF tucked under the edge. You don't want
anything more than 3mm because in OO scale, this represents pretty much
the maximum can't a real UK railway would be permitted to have.
Remember that at the scale we model, can't would not be implemented on
our unprototypical radii anyway!
The two pictures below show the effect:
http://www.brma.asn.au/gallery/TCH/x_06.jpg
http://www.brma.asn.au/gallery/TCH/x_13.jpg
Remember that you need a transition between canted track and straight
track. This should be a fair bit longer than your longest vehicle
because while the cant is unwinding, the track is also twisting: you
don't want to introduce to much twist.
Also remember that when a curve approaches a straight, it does not
change from curve radius directly to a straight: the transition is a
length of track where the radius progressively becomes tighter as one
moves from straight to curve. On my layout we used real modern
prototype CAD systems do design this. To be honest, I can't remember
whether we used cubic parabola formulea or spiral calculations, but in
model form, one wouldn't notice the difference.

Graham Plowman
newman - 27 May 2004 09:53 GMT
> Guy,
> Personally, I feel that any method of track canting which involves
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
>
> Graham Plowman

You can't use an apostophe with cant
newman - 27 May 2004 09:55 GMT
> > Guy,
> > Personally, I feel that any method of track canting which involves
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
>
> You can't use an apostophe with cant

And you can't spell apostrophe without an 'r'
Gregory Procter - 30 May 2004 00:22 GMT
> > Guy,
> > Personally, I feel that any method of track canting which involves
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
>
> You can't use an apostophe with cant

You cant?
MartinS - 30 May 2004 02:34 GMT
>> > Guy,
>> > Personally, I feel that any method of track canting which
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
>
> You cant?

Unless it is your wont.

Signature

Martin S.

Terry Flynn - 28 May 2004 04:43 GMT
> Guy,
> Personally, I feel that any method of track canting which involves
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
>
> Graham Plowman

The method of  slipping something under the ends of sleepers is easy and
works fine. I have done this on my layout, and even on sections were
ballasting is not complete, no problems have arisen due to under gauge
track. If the ballast is solid, and glued down, the track is going to keep
its gauge without much variation. Even if the track goes under gauge your
curves have to be small, before under gauge becomes a problem. On scale
curves you can have a track of 16.2mm for H0/00 without any problems.

Nice layout Graham.
Signature

Terry Flynn

For HO scale track standards go to
http://angelfire.com/clone/rail/index.html
also includes details of HO wagon weight and locomotive tractive effort
estimates

Gregory Procter - 30 May 2004 00:25 GMT
> > Guy,
> > Personally, I feel that any method of track canting which involves
[quoted text clipped - 32 lines]
> curves have to be small, before under gauge becomes a problem. On scale
> curves you can have a track of 16.2mm for H0/00 without any problems.

I slip two half thickness "somethings" under my sleepers so that the center
and the inner and outer ends are supported. I figure that by the time I have
ballasted and before the sag begins the entire sleeper will be supported.
 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2008 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.