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Model Forum / General / Railroads / February 2006



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Retaining walls

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Eddie Bray - 09 Feb 2006 17:39 GMT
Hi All,

I am looking for suggestions to make some sort of retaining walls. I need to
cover an area of about 10ft long by about 6" high. I would prefer that it
was stone rather than brick.

I have looked for some kind of kit/mould, but sll I can find is plastic
sheet type things and this will cost a fortune to cover 10ft.

Suggestions greatly appreciated.

Eddie
Chris Wilson - 09 Feb 2006 18:02 GMT
> Hi All,
>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> I have looked for some kind of kit/mould, but sll I can find is
> plastic sheet type things and this will cost a fortune to cover 10ft.

SuperQuick(*) "Brick paper" (they do stone as well) 10' x 6" should only be
a few quid ... or if you've got a colour printer print out your own.

A tip to give stone effect/brick paper texture is to place it face up over
rough sandpaper and rub it so the texture of the sandpaper imprints itself
on the paper.

Put it on over a base of thick card, plywood, hardboard or similar makes a
very stong and inexpensive wall. (Hardboard from my local shop comes out at
98p for a 4'x2' sheet)

(*) Mail order from Mainly Trains or even from over the counter at your
local shop. Other firms also do similar products but I'm a traditionalist
:-)

Signature

All the best,

Chris Wilson

That's cwilson at britwar with a dot uk and dot co on the end. (Reply
address is blackholed)

http://www.the-dormouse.org - The Dormouse Line Model Railway

John Rampling - 09 Feb 2006 19:41 GMT
> SuperQuick(*) "Brick paper" (they do stone as well) 10' x 6" should only
> be
> a few quid ... or if you've got a colour printer print out your own.

Is there by any chance a web site with nice sample images of masonry for
download?
Of course I could Google for 'brickwork' images, but is there a specialist
site?

John
Chris Wilson - 09 Feb 2006 19:48 GMT
>> SuperQuick(*) "Brick paper" (they do stone as well) 10' x 6" should
>> only be
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> Of course I could Google for 'brickwork' images, but is there a
> specialist site?

Not that I'm aware of, it's just a case of looking around and if you see it  
grab it and put it through an art program (say Paint Shop Pro) to get the
scaling right and away you go.

Ought to add, a lot of images on the web are pubic domain and you're free
to use them as you like, however many more are the property of someone
(copyright). If you are going to use an image grabbed from teh web  it's
good practice to write to the webamster of the site asking for permission
before hand (unless there's a clear notice to "help yourself") - not that
he'd ever know, but good manners being what they are.

Signature

All the best,

Chris Wilson

That's cwilson at britwar with a dot uk and dot co on the end. (Reply
address is blackholed)

http://www.the-dormouse.org - The Dormouse Line Model Railway

Andy Kirkham - 14 Feb 2006 12:19 GMT
> Ought to add, a lot of images on the web are pubic domain

All too true, but scarcely relevant to model railways :-)

Andy
peter abraham - 09 Feb 2006 21:04 GMT
>> SuperQuick(*) "Brick paper" (they do stone as well) 10' x 6" should only
>> be
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
>John

Whilst investigating the same subject i discovered a large section in
Google. There is a pay site but also a free site with lots of choice.

Peter A
Eddie Bray - 09 Feb 2006 20:21 GMT
Thanks for your reply,

I have ended up purchasing some retaining wall kits over the internet from
www.scalescenes.com which was recommended on RMWEB where I asked the same
question.

You print out what you need after purchasing the templates. Looks pretty
good so far. Range of materials covered different coloured brick, stone and
concrete.

Eddie.

>> Hi All,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
> local shop. Other firms also do similar products but I'm a traditionalist
> :-)
Chris Wilson - 09 Feb 2006 21:31 GMT
> Thanks for your reply,

...

I've just tried downloading thier freebie waiting shelter, first time I got
a "This is not a valid archive" and the second time acrobat reported that
it couldn't decrypt the file ...

... could be my system and software ... it's old, old I tell you but I'm
not inspired by confidence.

Shame I looked at their "bog standard" brick papers for scratch building
and I'm quite attracted to a couple of the patterns.

Signature

All the best,

Chris Wilson

That's cwilson at britwar with a dot uk and dot co on the end. (Reply
address is blackholed)

http://www.the-dormouse.org - The Dormouse Line Model Railway

Eddie Bray - 10 Feb 2006 06:09 GMT
Hi Chris,

I had no trouble downloading either the walls or the shelter, if you email
me direct (remove the ??? from the supplied address), I will forward the
shelter on to you.

Eddie.

>> Thanks for your reply,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> Shame I looked at their "bog standard" brick papers for scratch building
> and I'm quite attracted to a couple of the patterns.
Chris Wilson - 28 Feb 2006 22:13 GMT
> Hi Chris,
>
> I had no trouble downloading either the walls or the shelter, if you
> email me direct (remove the ??? from the supplied address), I will
> forward the shelter on to you.

Thanks but no thanks, I only attempted download etc out of curiosity, I
prefer to scratchbuild buildings ... it's one of the few things I can say
that I honestly believe that I'm good at.

Signature

All the best,

Chris Wilson

That's cwilson at britwar with a dot uk and dot co on the end. (Reply
address is blackholed)

http://www.the-dormouse.org - The Dormouse Line Model Railway

Adrian B - 10 Feb 2006 15:30 GMT
"Eddie Bray" <eddiebray???@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:8vNGf.287604

> I have ended up purchasing some retaining wall kits over the internet from
> www.scalescenes.com which was recommended on RMWEB where I asked the same
> question.
Not bad at all. I've just bought a couple. Of course, you need to factor-in
the cost of ink in your printer. Also, be aware that some ink-jet print is
prone to fade in sunlight (not a problem in my loft!).

Still, the PDFs I have just downloaded are very nice, with a photo-realistic
look about them.

The retaining wall kit looks particularly good, with walls, capping and even
a grafiti bit.

I'll try building one tonight, but the instructions look very clear and
professional.

Adrian
Rob Kemp - 10 Feb 2006 19:27 GMT
What a great link! Thanks Adrian
Rob
> "Eddie Bray" <eddiebray???@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:8vNGf.287604
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>
> Adrian
Adrian B - 13 Feb 2006 11:38 GMT
> What a great link! Thanks Adrian

Don't thank me. Eddy Bray posted it, but I'm well impressed too. I built the
retaining wall this weekend and very nice it looks too. I've printed off
another set, so I;ll attempt a curved section now...

I'll keep an eye out for the promised new kits too...

Adrian
crazy_horse_12002@yahoo.co.uk - 14 Feb 2006 20:58 GMT
> "Eddie Bray" <eddiebray???@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:8vNGf.287604
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>
> Adrian

It would be nice, but I cant see an option of engineers blue brick, or
better still, a weathered version. Have I missed something?
Wolf Kirchmeir - 14 Feb 2006 21:53 GMT
>> "Eddie Bray" <eddiebray???@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
>> news:8vNGf.287604
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> It would be nice, but I cant see an option of engineers blue brick, or
> better still, a weathered version. Have I missed something?

Fiddle with the colour balance?
Ivor - 09 Feb 2006 21:10 GMT
| Hi All,
|
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
|
| Eddie

The Linka moulds are pretty good for such things and give a realistic
effect.
It'd be a lot of work though, the moulded squares are only 1.25 inch
square.  The moulds aren't always very cheap either at between £2 and£6
each depending on where you source them.

Ivor
gppsoftware@gppsoftware.com - 09 Feb 2006 21:53 GMT
Eddie,

With such a large area to do, I wouldn't bother with any kits, paper or
Linka.
Kits/plastic sheets will always have joins which you will find hard to
hide and are usually very monotonous in appearance. Butresses will be a
problem. Paper, well, looks like paper, looks unreallistic, has no
texture and can buble over long periods of time. Linka would be too
much like hard work, although I do use it in small areas myself.
My advice to you would be to build your walls in the same way I built
my viaduct. See the pictures at the bottom of:

http://www.brma.asn.au/gallery/plowmang/Layout2.htm

The method is to use a 3mm plywood structure coated with plaster and
scribed with a mini-countersink on a drill when the plaster is about 2
days old and not fully hardened.
The scribing is a time consuming process, but the rest of the method is
very quick for large areas and doesn't suffer joins. Paint is with
water colour, so the stoner effect looks almost natural and you get a
very reallistic texture. Above all, it is a very cheap method!

See http://mrol.gppsoftware.com for a picture of the viaduct today. The
home page of the MROL website shows the viaduct. There are more
pictures in the magazine which you can download.

If you need any more information, just ask.

Graham Plowman

> Hi All,
>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> Eddie
Andrew - 23 Feb 2006 21:16 GMT
>Hi All,
>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
>Eddie

He he I cheated.

I bought 1 WILLS stone retaining wall kit and a tub of Latex.

Made up one section of the wall and used this to create a latex mould
of the wall section. A packet of casting powder later and I had my
12' retaing wall complete and ready to paint.

Cheeky I thought.

HTH

Andrew
Mike Hughes - 23 Feb 2006 21:38 GMT
>He he I cheated.
>
>I bought 1 WILLS stone retaining wall kit and a tub of Latex.

Where did you buy the latex (and plaster) from? I want to do something
similar for rock structures on the HO American layout I'm building.

Signature

Mike Hughes
A Taxi driver licensed for London and Brighton
at home in Tarring, West Sussex, England

Roy - 23 Feb 2006 23:45 GMT
>Where did you buy the latex (and plaster) from? I want to do something
>similar for rock structures on the HO American layout I'm building.

I do a lot of casting and purchase all of my latex [there are various
forms and bulking agents etc.]  from Magnacraft Midhurst - on the web as
www.paperpeople.co.uk.

For casting plaster or stone  try Hobby Craft Ltd Handicraft House
Notley Road Braintree Essex 01376 347000 and they will either supply
direct or steer you toward your nearest local supplier. Three kilo of
fine stone cast will cost about a fiver. It will do a hell of a lot of
walling.

I have recently discovered when using fine stone cast that play dough
makes superb open style or trough moulds and can be used over and over
again. I had to replace the small persons supply with new but it was
well worth it :0)

An excellent use for 'spare' latex is to cover twisted wire formers to
make decent tree structures etc.

Cheers.
Signature

Roy Holt
         roy@modelsteam.org.uk     Http://www.nenevalleymodelrailway.org.uk

manatbandq@hotmail.com - 24 Feb 2006 10:43 GMT
> >Where did you buy the latex (and plaster) from? I want to do something
> >similar for rock structures on the HO American layout I'm building.
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> again. I had to replace the small persons supply with new but it was
> well worth it :0)

Saw this similar technique in a modelling book from the library, don't
know the title:

Raid the small persons Lego tub (or even your own!) for a largish flat
baseplate.

Build a small, 1 brick high wall around the edge of the base, or to
suit size of wall being moulded.

Line the bottom with Plasticene and smooth/level out. The brick edge
gives a nice sharp edge to the moulded item.

Use a small tool (shaped from wood, styrene, old tooh brush handle,
etc) to make the impression of bricks in the Plasticene.

Pour in your moulding plaster.

Wait for it to set.

Hey Presto!

With imagination you can mould all sorts of textures such as paving
slabs or roof tiles. Lay extra bricks or blocks of wood, etc in before
the Plasticene to make door or window openings.

You could use your first one as a master for a latex mould

MBQ
Ken Wilson - 24 Feb 2006 19:17 GMT
"Roy" > I do a lot of casting and purchase all of my latex [there are
various
> forms and bulking agents etc.]  from Magnacraft Midhurst - on the web as
> www.paperpeople.co.uk.
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> again. I had to replace the small persons supply with new but it was well
> worth it :0)

Excellent.

Do you mind expanding on which product to use?  There appear to be several
on the http://www.paperpeople.co.uk/mouldingcasting.html site. and i'm not
sure which mould, final positive and release agents i need.

I have in mind 3 applications (and have had for some time but haven't yet
found a how-to on the web nor a model shop seller - lots of bulk commercial
ones.).

1    A cast of Thomas's face and hang faces on some of my non thmas
applications for Thos Days.  I tried it in DAS negative but it shrunk and
distorted.

2    Stone walls.  About an inch high. 20ft.  Some curved. Edges of the
board to keep the kids from knocking the trains as they go between rooms and
close to edges. Happy to make in DAS positive for a foot or so.  But then a
wooden box; latex mould and turn them out by the foot?

3    Church windows. The big things with arches and filigree?  I thought to
make one in DAS or carved plastic strip, Latex mould and then make copies in
glass fibre (boat building? - got some in the shed) resin.

Oh - and it quite appeals to do stone embankments using Wills sheets......
The big slaters sheets aren't knobbly enough.

I have seen the feature on that Garden Railway Sky Discovery Xtra series
where he showed the lady making (a tower was it?) in plasticene, commercial
latex mould and then resin - and also read the article in the 1960s Model
Rail Constructor annual showing making interlocking moulds (somehwat akin to
the linka things) for garden and field walls.

Thanks for you help

Ken
 
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