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Model Forum / General / Railroads / December 2006DCC in a Hornby R2452 0-4-0T
I am about to try my first decoder fitting in a non-socket loco. As I look inside the loco there appears to be a small component covered in red heatshrink apparently in series with the motor - What is it and should I remove it or leave it? Ta, Paul.  SignaturePaul Matthews paul@cattytown.me.uk http://www.hepcats.co.uk > I am about to try my first decoder fitting in a non-socket loco. > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Ta, > Paul. Most likely a suppression capacitor. There are mixed views on this, and I tend to try leaving it in, and if the running is appalling, then take it out. >I am about to try my first decoder fitting in a non-socket loco. > As I look inside the loco there appears to be a small component covered in > red > heatshrink apparently in series with the motor - What is it and should I > remove > it or leave it? I think you mean "in parallel" with the motor i.e. it connects the two feeds from left and right. It is a capacitor to prevent or reduce TV interference. If you are using a Hornby or ZTC decoder, try leaving it in place at first. Other makes of decoder work better with them removed. There is interference suppression circuitry in the decoders. You will need to shorten the wires quite a lot to fit them in the small space available but be careful - it is difficult to put the wire back. After you have done the first one successfully, confidence will grow. Remember "red and black - track, orange and grey - the other way." Orange goes where the red went and grey where black went. Good luck. Dave W. >I think you mean "in parallel" with the motor i.e. it connects the two feeds >from left and right. I am aware of the difference between series and parallel. >It is a capacitor to prevent or reduce TV interference. If you are using a >Hornby or ZTC decoder, try leaving it in place at first. Other makes of >decoder work better with them removed. There is interference suppression >circuitry in the decoders. I am using a zimo mx63, so will trim the caps, but without peeling the heatshrink I sdon't know what to do with this component. There are pics at http://www.hepcats.co.uk/loco1.jpg http://www.hepcats.co.uk/loco2.jpg and http://www.hepcats.co.uk/loco3.jpg Two caps can clearly be seen at the top of the pics. The component is best seen in the third pic. In this loco, it looks like the design was basically a coppery coloured spring that the motor just rests on - here looks to have been two springs, bue one looks to have been trimmed to allow this component to be fitted. My *guess* is that it is possibly a resistor in an attempt to restrict max speed, in which case, bye bye resistor... Thanks, Paul. SignaturePaul Matthews paul@cattytown.me.uk http://www.hepcats.co.uk > >I think you mean "in parallel" with the motor i.e. it connects the two feeds > >from left and right. [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > My *guess* is that it is possibly a resistor in an attempt to restrict max > speed, in which case, bye bye resistor... It looks like a radio frequency choke (inductor) to me in which case it can be removed but must be replaced with plain wire. (kim) >It looks like a radio frequency choke (inductor) to me in which case it can >be removed but must be replaced with plain wire. Ta - that was the only other component I could think of that it could possibly be. I am happy for someone to correct me though. P. SignaturePaul Matthews paul@cattytown.me.uk http://www.hepcats.co.uk >It looks like a radio frequency choke (inductor) to me in which case it can >be removed but must be replaced with plain wire. > >(kim) Choke it is, it won't do any harm to leave it in, but it won't do any good either, best to do a clean install, remove all the caps and choke so you can connect the orange and grey motor wires directly to the brush connections. Keith >Choke it is, it won't do any harm to leave it in, but it won't do any >good either, best to do a clean install, remove all the caps and choke >so you can connect the orange and grey motor wires directly to the >brush connections. Thanks for the confirmation, Paul. SignaturePaul Matthews paul@cattytown.me.uk http://www.hepcats.co.uk >>Choke it is, it won't do any harm to leave it in, but it won't do any >>good either, best to do a clean install, remove all the caps and choke [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Paul. Are you trying to turn a 'smokey joe' type, minimum speed 90mph on hint of controller power, into something more controllable without replacing motor and or gears ? Let me know how you get on, am sure could make nice colliery locos out of them ! Cheers, Simon >Are you trying to turn a 'smokey joe' type, minimum speed 90mph on hint of >controller power, into something more controllable without replacing motor >and or gears ? Hmm, Not sure - I am new to the hobby and have made the decision DCC from the start, si I just want this loco to be DCC. >Let me know how you get on, am sure could make nice colliery locos out of >them ! That's exactly what I want - I am new to this, and my thoughts for a first proper layout are around mine - I have been loookinf closely at info on pit head gear... As for starting DCC, I tink that has been vindicated already. All I have as something to play with while I get used to things is the hornby trackmat stuff through D, with a Peco turntable in the middle in place of the siding. Four locos on DCC and the bachmann EZ-DCC and my four year old son (this is one of a few things I am trying to involve him in in the potentially vain hope that as he grows up just one may be a potential common hobby) ca comfortably handle press button one and you control the blue one, two for the red one, four for the green one and five for the one that looks like duck... P. SignaturePaul Matthews paul@cattytown.me.uk http://www.hepcats.co.uk >Are you trying to turn a 'smokey joe' type, minimum speed 90mph on hint of >controller power, into something more controllable without replacing motor >and or gears ? > >Let me know how you get on, am sure could make nice colliery locos out of >them ! I did it today. The job was actually quite easy - took about 45 mins to an hour - not too bad as my first attempt at DCCing a non-dcc ready loco. It works, it goes slow, it goes fast enou to come off the rails on a first radius bend. I'm happy! Somewhere along the way I set something that set the loco with a max speed of "is it moving?" but a factory reset sorted that. Thanks for all the comments, Paul. SignaturePaul Matthews paul@cattytown.me.uk http://www.hepcats.co.uk >>Are you trying to turn a 'smokey joe' type, minimum speed 90mph on hint of >>controller power, into something more controllable without replacing motor [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > Thanks for all the comments, > Paul. Thats excellent, was resigned to Jinty and J94 but really wanted a smaller one that could 'decorate' as a local colliery engine. Have got 2 smokey joe types, bought one not knowing their speed capabilities and the other was a hornby club gift. Wasnt expecting to be able to use as is. In answer to your remark "I have been loookinf closely at info on pit head gear..." - Rob Johnsons Modelling aspects of Coal Industry gives some plans of pit head gear, hes just published a second volume but not seen that. I've scratch built one with winding shed - based on Snibston Colliery in Coalville, now doing an interpretation of Screen sheds. Not many good photos of the site in 1930-1940's. Cheers, Simon >Thats excellent, was resigned to Jinty and J94 but really wanted a smaller >one that could 'decorate' as a local colliery engine. Have got 2 smokey joe >types, bought one not knowing their speed capabilities and the other was a >hornby club gift. Wasnt expecting to be able to use as is. NP. >In answer to your remark "I have been loookinf closely at info on pit head >gear..." - Rob Johnsons Modelling aspects of Coal Industry gives some plans >of pit head gear, hes just published a second volume but not seen that. I've >scratch built one with winding shed - based on Snibston Colliery in >Coalville, now doing an interpretation of Screen sheds. Not many good photos >of the site in 1930-1940's. Cool - thanks for the tips. Any chance of some pics of yours? Is there an ISBN on the book? Quick check don't show much... I am not likely to actually start much properly for a few months as we are tryng too sell the house and I'll get shot if I create MORE clutter, but I can plan... SignaturePaul Matthews paul@cattytown.me.uk http://www.hepcats.co.uk >>Thats excellent, was resigned to Jinty and J94 but really wanted a smaller >>one that could 'decorate' as a local colliery engine. Have got 2 smokey [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > can > plan... ISBN 1 899624 43 0 Published by Book Law. If thats your real email address can send some photos - inc construction esp of wheels. Simon >ISBN 1 899624 43 0 Published by Book Law. Ta >If thats your real email address can send some photos - inc construction esp >of wheels. brill - thanks - it is my real address. SignaturePaul Matthews paul@cattytown.me.uk http://www.hepcats.co.uk >ISBN 1 899624 43 0 Published by Book Law. Found their web site - only got the second volume on there, so an email has been sent. Thanks again, Paul. SignaturePaul Matthews paul@cattytown.me.uk http://www.hepcats.co.uk >> I think you mean "in parallel" with the motor i.e. it connects the two feeds >>from left and right. [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > Thanks, > Paul. More than likely an inductor working in Tandem with the caps to reduce interference. More easily seen on the Bachmann circuit boards of their locos. Should not need it with a decoder so try it and see then restore if there is a problem. Chris |
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