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Hornby Eurostar overheating

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RB0135 - 15 Jan 2007 14:41 GMT
Hi All,

I bought my son the Hornby Eurostar set (2 ends (one being the engine)
with 2 carriages). I use the standard Hornby conrtoller that came with
the set.

If I run the engine by itself, it seems quiet happy and runs without
stopping.

When I add the carriages and the other end, it might run for 2-3
minutes then stop. Waiting 30 secs, I can then run it for another
minute or so then it stops again.

At first, I thought it was overheating and didn't worry about it too
much at that time. I email Hornby who said the motor would not be
overheating and are not interested in looking/fixing the engine.

Recently (6 months after I got the set), I decided to take the cover
off the engine, run it until it stopped. Sure enough, it stopped and I
felt the motor.. It was that hot, any given length of time touching it
would have caused a burn on my finger.

The carriages run freely, and there doesnt feel any drag when
pushing/pulling them on the track.

Has anyone come across this before.. I mean with the Hornby Eurostar
Engine (I know there are others that seem to do so) ?

Is it just a dud motor?

I feel the best solution is to replace the motor (probably cheap
rubbish) with a more reliable motor and if so, any recommendations of a
good motor make.

Thanks,
Robert
John Turner - 15 Jan 2007 14:45 GMT
> When I add the carriages and the other end, it might run for 2-3
> minutes then stop. Waiting 30 secs, I can then run it for another
> minute or so then it stops again.

That sounds like the 'thermal cut out' in the controller is tripping either
because it's faulty or because the train is drawing too much current,
probably the former.  It's a regular issue with these cheap & nasty
transformer/ controllers.

You can check out my theory if you know someone who has a decent quality
controller with say a 1amp output.  If the problem doesn't arise when using
that, then you know the trainset controller is faulty.

John.

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RB0135 - 15 Jan 2007 15:23 GMT
Thanks for the fast reply..

Just to note, I run a Hornby Flying Scotsman (I think 5 pole) and
probably a 15-20 year old Patriot-Duke of Sutherland (with one of those
older upright motors.. name escapes me at the moment) and they run fine
for hours using the same controller... I would have thought the older
train would draw a lot more current.

I do have an older transformer lying about (which I know has a high amp
output) so I will give that ago and see what happens. What I might do
also (as you have given me a thought) is to monitor the voltage (with a
multimeter) as the train is running. When it stops, I can see if there
is voltage to the track or not.. That way, I can also test your theory.

I just cant believe Hornby would use a cheap and nasty controller (for
the price you pay) but then everthing seems to be made in Chine where
there is NO quality control.... That might answer the question as to
why Horby did ask me what controller I was using, then couldnt be
bothered following up on my issue.

Thanks again,
Robert

> > When I add the carriages and the other end, it might run for 2-3
> > minutes then stop. Waiting 30 secs, I can then run it for another
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> John.
JimG - 15 Jan 2007 15:52 GMT
Robert,

>I do have an older transformer lying about (which I know has a high amp
>output) so I will give that ago and see what happens. What I might do
>also (as you have given me a thought) is to monitor the voltage (with a
>multimeter) as the train is running. When it stops, I can see if there
>is voltage to the track or not.. That way, I can also test your theory.

Might be more useful to put an ammeter in series to see what the
current draw of the motor is.  The problem you have looks as though it
might be caused by the current being drawn by the motor and it would
be helpful to have a value that could be compared with other users.
Your stating that the motor gets much too hot to handle is an
indicator that something is wrong with the motor causing it to draw
too much current.  When running light,  the current is probably at a
level that your controller can just cope with.  With the added load of
the coaches,  the current draw will be a bit higher and it looks as
though it is causing the overload protection in the controller to
operate.

Jim.
airsmoothed@hotmail.com - 15 Jan 2007 16:25 GMT
> Robert,
>
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>
> Jim.
Personally I'd take the set back from whence it came, as it is clearly
not fit for purpose. The retailer  can then establish whether it is the
controller or the loco at fault and repair / replace as appropriate.
Wolf - 15 Jan 2007 15:45 GMT
> Hi All,
[...]
> Is it just a dud motor?

Sure, no question. Probably a short in the windings somewhere, which
allows way too much current to flow.

> I feel the best solution is to replace the motor (probably cheap
> rubbish) with a more reliable motor and if so, any recommendations of a
> good motor make.

The Hornby motors are generally OK, so IMO you were just unlucky and got
one with a fault which wouldn't show up in the short test run they do at
the factory. But I doubt that Hornby will replace the motor for you,
since it looks like you've passed the warranty expiry date. But it's
worth a try. Tell them you'll never recommend Hornby to anyone ever
again if don't get no satisfaction. And that you'll offer to tell your
sorry tale to anyone who'll stand still long enough to listen. Then
stick to it. Hornby has had a free ride on its past (and well-deserved)
reputation for reliability for too long IMO. It's time to call them on it.

> Thanks,
> Robert

You're welcome.
John Turner - 15 Jan 2007 17:00 GMT
> The Hornby motors are generally OK, so IMO you were just unlucky and got
> one with a fault which wouldn't show up in the short test run they do at
> the factory.

The motors in the Eurostar (same as the Networker) are not fit for purpose
[1] in my opinion, and do have a tendency to overheat when put under any
sort of load.  It's a shame that with these models Hornby have spoiled the
job for the traditional small tar application.

I still wouldn't rule out the controller being at fault, but it could be the
motor.  I think on reflection the advice to return it from where it came
might be the best course of action.

[1] apologies for using the latest trendy phrase, but if it's good enough
for referring to the Home Office's inadequacies, then it seems highly
appropriate in this instance too.

John.

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airsmoothed@hotmail.com - 15 Jan 2007 20:02 GMT
> [1] apologies for using the latest trendy phrase,>
> John.

Sorry John ;-), from memory that's the exact phrase used in the Sale of
Goods Act. Pity us end customers and you retailers end up doing the
manufacturer's QC for them.:-/
RB0135 - 15 Jan 2007 22:40 GMT
Everyone..

Thankyou for much insight into my issue. They are very much
appreciated.

After I posted the question, I ran the engine by itself.. It actually
did stop, but after 40 minutes continuous running at a reasonable
"realistic" speed.

I will run the amp test and volt check first and see how it goes. Then,
if that is OK, I will replace the motor myself.

I will all let you know the outcome (probably in a few days)..

I quick question... Am I right to think that the motor should draw
between .2 and .6 amps? I cant (of course) find any specs on it....

Thanks all,
Robert

> > [1] apologies for using the latest trendy phrase,>
> > John.
> >
> Sorry John ;-), from memory that's the exact phrase used in the Sale of
> Goods Act. Pity us end customers and you retailers end up doing the
> manufacturer's QC for them.:-/
John Turner - 15 Jan 2007 22:55 GMT
> I quick question... Am I right to think that the motor should draw
> between .2 and .6 amps? I cant (of course) find any specs on it....

I would have thought towards the very bottom of that range.  Isn't the
trainset controller just 1/3rd amp?

John.

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simon - 15 Jan 2007 22:59 GMT
> Everyone..
>
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> Thanks all,
> Robert
Just another suggestion, you say the coaches are free running, but what
about the loco. Have you checked theres nothing rubbing against the wheels ?
Try turning it upside down, apply power (couple of wires from the track)
move the wheels/axles side to side whilst under power and see if theres any
obstruction. Otherwise remove the motor so wheels are free to revolve and
check again.

Cheers,
Simon
RB0135 - 15 Jan 2007 23:49 GMT
John... I'm not sure about the controller output. It has the voltage on
it but not amperage.. Something to check.

Simon.. Thanks for the suggestion, but I have done that.. They are
running fine (the whole unit probably has only run for 1 hour over 6
months) so there is no evident wear on the boogies..

But, thanks again for all suggestions.

Robert

> > Everyone..
> >
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
> Cheers,
> Simon
kim - 15 Jan 2007 23:58 GMT
> John... I'm not sure about the controller output. It has the voltage on
> it but not amperage.. Something to check.

The mains adapter says 5VA at 15V which equates to a third of one amp or
333mA.

(kim)
RB0135 - 16 Jan 2007 07:58 GMT
Kim.. When I got home today, I checked my mains adapter.... Its ouput
is 800mA, so I have more than enough.

Ok... well here is the news of testing:

1) Tested the amps while train in motion.. Measured average 400mA
pulling the other carriages (bit high I thought), 320mA when by itself.
When the train stopped, about .5mA drawn (showing some resistance
somewhere)

Let the train cool for 30 minutes

2) Tested the voltage while train in motion (voltage fluctuated approx
1.5 volt as it went around the circuit) until stopped... Only about .3
volts being draw when did.

3) I decided to take the train off the tracks when it stopped without
touching the controller... Voltage came back up to 8 volts (where I had
my throttle originally)..

So, this proves no doubt that the motor is shorting when it heats up.
An open circuit in the motor would not produce the voltage issues
explained above.

To add to the test, I tested the train with another controller. This
controller lights up when there is a short. Sure enough, when the train
stopped, the light came on for the short. Took the train off the
tracks, light went off.

I then ran another test. I took the stopped train off the tracks, and
put on another engine. Straight away the train ran. Also, when the
other engine was running (15-20 year old) it only drew 210mA (average).

I also put 3 engines on the same circuit and ran them off the
controller for 30 minutes. They drew total of about 730mA and didn't
miss a beat, definetly ruling out the controller...

Now, I have to find a good replacement motor (in Australia that is)...

Thanks to all,
Robert

> > John... I'm not sure about the controller output. It has the voltage on
> > it but not amperage.. Something to check.
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> (kim)
John Turner - 16 Jan 2007 08:26 GMT
> Now, I have to find a good replacement motor (in Australia that is)...

If the set is under three months old then Hornby should provide you one free
of charge.  You could also reasonably argue that it should have been of
saleable quality for longer than that, so I would have thought that a free
replacement motor for up to twelve months would be reasonable.

John.

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Kevin Martin - 16 Jan 2007 13:21 GMT
> Kim.. When I got home today, I checked my mains adapter.... Its ouput
> is 800mA, so I have more than enough.
[quoted text clipped - 34 lines]
>
> Now, I have to find a good replacement motor (in Australia that is)...

So where in Australia did you buy it? Did you buy it in Australia? Is
there a proper retailer near you?

Signature

Regards

Kevin Martin

To reply - delete what is "not required" (Abbrev) from my address.

RB0135 - 16 Jan 2007 21:16 GMT
Hi Kevin.

I bought it from Hobbyco... They said they cant do anything about it
and go direct to Hornby...

I bought it back in July, 06 so it is just over 6 months old..

I have been told by Hornby to ring SouthernModels, the Australian
distributor/repairer for Hornby, but I am not getting a good reception
from them..

Robert

> > Kim.. When I got home today, I checked my mains adapter.... Its ouput
> > is 800mA, so I have more than enough.
[quoted text clipped - 44 lines]
>
> To reply - delete what is "not required" (Abbrev) from my address.
kim - 16 Jan 2007 21:32 GMT
> Hi Kevin.
>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> distributor/repairer for Hornby, but I am not getting a good reception
> from them..

And you won't. It's what they call an "intermittent fault". They'll run it
for five minutes on its own, then send it back saying it looks okay to them.
Your word against their's, nothing you can do. I cancelled all my domestic
insurance policies for the same reason.

(kim)
BH Williams - 17 Jan 2007 10:20 GMT
>> Hi Kevin.
>>
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>
> (kim)

Same thing happens on full-scale trains, believe me....Most technicians and
mechanics have some sort of 'field' which causes intermittent faults to
disappear in their presence- a similar effect is to be observed in the
dentist's waiting room.
Brian
Jim Guthrie - 17 Jan 2007 11:46 GMT
Brian,

>Same thing happens on full-scale trains, believe me....Most technicians and
>mechanics have some sort of 'field' which causes intermittent faults to
>disappear in their presence- a similar effect is to be observed in the
>dentist's waiting room.

We used to call it the Membury effect.   We ran a complex bit of
digital sound equipment in Bristol some years ago and the service
engineer had to come from west London.  When he was called out for a
fault,  the equipment usually fixed itself as he was driving past
Membury service station, halfway to Bristol. :-)

Jim.
RB0135 - 17 Jan 2007 12:22 GMT
BH and Jim..

That gave me a chuckle.. I am an IT Consultant and the exact same thing
happens. There could be a fault of some description with a PC, Printer
or whatever, I turn up and it miraculosly fixes itself without me
touching a thing...

Jim wrote:

> Brian,
>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> Jim.
BH Williams - 17 Jan 2007 12:56 GMT
> Jim wrote:
>>
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> or whatever, I turn up and it miraculosly fixes itself without me
> touching a thing...

That's why you got the job, mate! I find clicking the 'send' button on the
E-mail to our MIS department produces similar results.
Brian
Kevin Martin - 17 Jan 2007 13:58 GMT
> BH and Jim..
>
> That gave me a chuckle.. I am an IT Consultant and the exact same thing
> happens. There could be a fault of some description with a PC, Printer
> or whatever, I turn up and it miraculosly fixes itself without me
> touching a thing...

That's funny, for my previous employer the IT section they also claimed
something was fixed, whereas in fact the only sign that they had touched
the thing was that something else had stopped working too. In the end
you gave up reporting anything wrong, unless it was fatal.

Mind you I felt sorry for the Tech because the laptops there were
expected to fix were around 6 yaers old.

Signature

Regards

Kevin Martin

To reply - delete what is "not required" (Abbrev) from my address.

Keith Willcocks - 17 Jan 2007 13:27 GMT
> Brian,
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> fault,  the equipment usually fixed itself as he was driving past
> Membury service station, halfway to Bristol. :-)

It's to do with that dirty great aerial at Membury.    Amplifies his fixit
waves.  ;o)
Signature

Keith Willcocks
(If you can't laugh at life, it ain't worth living!)

Peter Abraham - 18 Jan 2007 07:15 GMT
>Hi All,
>
[quoted text clipped - 32 lines]
>Thanks,
>Robert

I feel sorry for RBO135 ---  he has an obviously defective motor (
probably  a dry jointed winding tail) and is getting the retail
run-around.     It is remarkable that most of the correspondents have
such faith in the motor quality that they dismiss the chance of a
fault!      Intermittant faults are a real bastard but usually led to
wildly incorrect diagnosis and very expensive unnecessary repair
action ( people like myself who were trained in such skills ), are
dinasaurs in the "change it for a new one " approach to repair.
My advice would be to do exactly as you postulated and buy a new motor
from Hornby - their reliability is really very good - a utter curses
quietly, on the subject of  pommy/chino crap. I find that this works
for Renault and Opel   (note that the sources cursed are changed) and
a gentle waving of a purple or green wand ( purple = mechanical ,
green = electrical) will help enourmously. If all else fails then ram
an aspirin or paracetomol into the offending object.

Peter A
Montarlot
John Turner - 18 Jan 2007 09:54 GMT
> It is remarkable that most of the correspondents have
such faith in the motor quality that they dismiss the chance of a fault!

In my case Peter the initial diagnosis of 'probably a faulty thermal
cut-out' was reached after twenty years of dealing with problems with the
cheap & nasty controllers which Hornby provide with their trainsets.

You will also note that I suggested that the Eurostar motor is 'not fit for
purpose', and even if it should prove to be a faulty motor (as seems to be
likely) it doesn't negate the fact that there has been an on-going problem
with these controllers throughout their existence.

I've often suggested on here (and elsewhere) that the quality of the
equipment provided in trainsets by Hornby over the years has done the hobby
more harm than good.

If their products over the last twenty years had been anywhere near as good
as their marketing, then this hobby could have been many times the size it
is today, burt poor performance and quality has driven numerous 'newbies'
(including many youngsters) away from model trains before they really got
started.

John.
Sailor - 18 Jan 2007 11:55 GMT
> > It is remarkable that most of the correspondents have
> such faith in the motor quality that they dismiss the chance of a fault!
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> likely) it doesn't negate the fact that there has been an on-going problem
> with these controllers throughout their existence.

John,
I recognise that you are practically unique in being a retailer AND
involved in the hobby and the wider world of railways!  I wrote my
rather facetious suggestions with the benifit of hindsight - hence my
use of majority!
Your arms may not be getting shorter (I am sure that mine are) but you
manage to stay awake allday!
Peter A
John Turner - 18 Jan 2007 14:38 GMT
> Your arms may not be getting shorter (I am sure that mine are) but you
> manage to stay awake all day!

Not always Peter - I've had to resort to a couple of hours kip on a Sunday
afternoon on more than one occasion in the run up to and since Christmas,
and I thought that one needed less sleep the older one got!!!!  Doesn't work
with me, although I do tend to burn the candle at both ends on occasions.

John.
simon - 18 Jan 2007 23:23 GMT
> I feel sorry for RBO135 ---  he has an obviously defective motor (
> probably  a dry jointed winding tail) and is getting the retail
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> Peter A
> Montarlot

For goodness sake Peter, when are you going to say something i can agree
with ?
Its cos of the reliability of these motors that some of us just dont have
any experience of dodgy ones, hence didnt recognise the symptoms.

But thank you, cos have learned something.

Cheers,
Simon
Sailor - 19 Jan 2007 07:24 GMT
t

> For goodness sake Peter, when are you going to say something i can agree
> with ?
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> Cheers,
> Simon

I am a firm believer in :  If it ain't broke - fix it!
Peter
simon - 19 Jan 2007 14:46 GMT
> t
>
> I am a firm believer in :  If it ain't broke - fix it!
> Peter

Or in computing "if it aint broke - upgrade it"

Simon
RB0135 - 29 Jan 2007 22:21 GMT
Well.. a follow up on the issue:

Southern Models (authorised repairer for Hornby in Australia) decided
to look at the loco. They replaced the motor free of charge..

However, after a few hours running the train, it developed the same
problem....(at one stage it was a joyous occasion when the loco
returned and it worked)..

I couldn't be bothered returning the Loco again to get fixed, so I
tried a third controller.. Well, the train ran without issues....

So, about 3 days after this, rather than buying a brand new "more
powerful" controller, I decided to switch to DCC. I wired up the
Eurostar (and my other loco's) and surfice to say, I have not had an
issue since...

To sum up: Southern Models did encounter the same issue as I reported
and repaired the Loco (I checked the motor and it was new). However,
soon after the fault developed again. Tested with a third controller
(and now DCC) and NO problems...

Just maybe, the first motor developed a fault which eventually had an
inpact on the orginal Hornby controller (an R965)... because Hornby
wouldnt sell an underpowered controller with their train set...
right??? ;-)

Thanks to all that entered into this post.

Robert

> >Hi All,
>
[quoted text clipped - 49 lines]
> Peter A
> Montarlot- Hide quoted text -- Show quoted text -
Peter Abraham - 30 Jan 2007 10:30 GMT
>Well.. a follow up on the issue:
>
[quoted text clipped - 80 lines]
>> Peter A
>> Montarlot- Hide quoted text -- Show quoted text -

Well done!   Nice to see a success story.
 
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