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Model Forum / General / Railroads / April 2010More on Couplings.
I have been trying out Kadees and D&G couplings. I find the Kadees a bit fiddly to set up and I would sooner not have them on the loco as I don't want them coupling up when they are parked in the shed. The D&G couplings are easy to make up but I find that when coupling, the loops, being the same level, ride up on each other and won't drop on the hook. This can be remedied by only having the loop on one end, not a problem for me as being and end to end layout my stock won't be reversed. The problem is I wanted to put only the hook part of the coupling on the both ends of the locos so as they would not couple up, but will be faced with not coupling with one end of the stock. This would also be the case if I only put it on one end of the loco as the locos will be turned. Any ideas. Dezzi >I have been trying out Kadees and D&G couplings. > I find the Kadees a bit fiddly to set up and I would sooner not have [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > Dezzi What I do like about the D&G is that you can uncouple them on the move, not having to do the forwards/backwards/forwards thingy like the Kadees. > I have been trying out Kadees and D&G couplings. > I find the Kadees a bit fiddly to set up and I would sooner not have [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > turned. > Any ideas. DG's are very sensitive to the loop being exactly horizontal, or slight lumps in the profile near the bends. Lifting when the loops meet is a common problem. Hence the solution of loops at one end only. If horizontal tweaking isn't enough. You may be able to tweak things a little by having the loops fractionally lower at one end of the stock than the other; provided your stock does not reverse this should work. 0.25mm should be enough difference to ensure a particular loop will always be on top. You can have stock which is just too free running. Kadee/Microtrains used to sell retarding springs to put on the pinpoints of stock to give it a little bit of braking. These can be made by winding the thinnest phos-bronze wire you can find (eg. 36swg or thinner) around a 1mm shaft (drill bit). Or salvaged from N gauge coupler pockets. Or probably bought. DG loops from one piece of steel rod seem to work (eg. Guitar E string) rather than phos-bronze loop soldered to steel dropper. There was an article in a recent N Gauge Soc journal on them, and I put a summary of the method in the 2mm Newsletter. - Nigel  SignatureNigel Cliffe, Webmaster at http://www.2mm.org.uk/ >I have been trying out Kadees and D&G couplings. >I find the Kadees a bit fiddly to set up and I would sooner not have [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > >Dezzi Hi Dezzi You can set up your stock so that the locos have hooks only at each end - but it means that your stock is best worked in rakes with loops at each end of the rake. Have you looked at B&B Couplings? Same principle as D&G but etched and easier to assemble and adjust. Also have you looked at Dingham Couplers? These are based on using a coupler hook in the prototypical position on the buffer beam and are compatible with 3 link couplings. Bear in mind that none of these is as robust as Kadees. Regards SignatureBill Campbell > The D&G couplings are easy to make up but I find that when coupling, > the loops, being the same level, ride up on each other and won't drop > on the hook. This can be remedied by only having the loop on one end, > not a problem for me as being and end to end layout my stock won't be > reversed. You might like to look at the Dingham couplings. They're really nice, but single ended which you say won't be a problem. Web page at http://www.dingham.co.uk/4mm_coupler.htm SignaturePaul Boyd http://www.paul-boyd.me.uk/ > I have been trying out Kadees and D&G couplings. > I find the Kadees a bit fiddly to set up and I would sooner not have [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > Dezzi There is a Kadee uncoupling rod or you can use philips instrument screw driver to twist the couplings apart. SignatureChris |
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