RC fishing boat - help!
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Tom Gardner - 11 Apr 2004 03:52 GMT It's getting to be spring and young men's thoughts turn to....FISHING!!! Every year a bunch of us go to Canada and stalk the 50" Great Northern Pike. Over the years I have hatched some bizarre schemes to get an edge on these monsters, some have worked, some get laughs. This year I want a radio-controlled boat to pull a bait in areas that I just can't get into with the big boat without spooking the fish or getting hung-up. My plan is to use a planerboard release on the boat with about a 10'-20' lead to some appropriate bait. The fish hits the bait, the release pops, I land fish, I release fish, repeat. Searching around for the appropriate boat has been fruitless. Either the boat is too fast, too small, too unstable, too expensive, too inefficient, etc. The ideal boat would be about 24" - 36" with a wide beam, be able to go slow and be maneuverable, have long battery life (hours) and have a method of charging. This year is a drive-in on logging roads, not a fly-in so I will have access to the van's power systems. Oh, BTW, I don't want to spend a lot, maybe $100 or so. Any ideas? I do have an old Futaba 2 ch. with 1 servo. I also have a absolutely complete machine shop and wood shop. Want to sell me an old RC boat?
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m ~¿Ô m - 11 Apr 2004 06:47 GMT > It's getting to be spring and young men's thoughts turn to....FISHING!!! > Every year a bunch of us go to Canada and stalk the 50" Great Northern [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > shop. Want to sell me an old RC > boat? Have you considered a sailboat? You would need two servos to handle the rudder and sails. Battery life is a plus, stable, efficent, this model has a shallower draft than many sailboats in this size range. Maybe more important quiet and fun to sail.
http://www.victor-model.com/soling1m.html
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Tom Gardner - 11 Apr 2004 14:40 GMT > Have you considered a sailboat? > You would need two servos to handle the rudder and sails. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > http://www.victor-model.com/soling1m.html Thanks! I did concider a sailboat but in most of the coves that I will target, the wind is very unpredictable and swirls like a toilet bowl and I need very precise movement. Noise isn't really a problem except a 15 hp gas outboard, actually the Pike are stupid and attracted to a small commotion. I'm thinking of carving a block of foam and using a small motor and a 2 ch. I was hoping to find something off the shelf cheap or used.
Gary R. Schmidt - 11 Apr 2004 15:37 GMT >>Have you considered a sailboat? >>You would need two servos to handle the rudder and sails. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > I'm thinking of carving a block of foam and using a small motor and a 2 ch. > I was hoping to find something off the shelf cheap or used. In MMI, there is an advertisement by Pegasus Models, <http;//www.pegasus.co.uk>, which includes a "Bait Boat/Feeder", quoting: "A bait feeder specifically designed to place your hook, weights and ground bait where required. Specifications: 31" Long 11" Beam 1kg Payload
New 3 channel version complete R.T.R UKPounds 269"
If you are a barbarian, 1kg ~= 2.2 pounds avoirdupois.
Cheers, Gary B-)
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Dick Johnson - 03 May 2004 20:55 GMT Gary:
A few years back RC Boat Modeler Mag had a construction article for a "GOFER" A twin hull catamaran arrangement that was used for retreiving stalled models boat without geting wet. Each rectangular hull was about 20-25 " long . and 4" wide and 5 " tall The two hulls are bridged across thee top so that the combination was about 20 -25" wide and 6" tall . Each hull had a motor, prop, and proportional controller and half the battery power . Mine uses two 6 volt 4 aHr gel cells connected in parallel .
I couldn't locate the plans so I built my GOFUR from memory I built mine to be very rugged ( and a bit heavy) The design is not critical, but do test float the critter before drilling for the prop shafts. Consider some sort of keel stubs to guard thr props when out of the water. (lessons learned).
The boat uses 2 RC channels The are no rudders. In use, both motors are put ahead full . One side is always a little bit strongerthan the other so that the boat will go in a wide circle. You need only to back off on the strong side to match power and get the thing to run straight, It takes about 3 minutes to get the hang of it. It will spin in its own length when one side is going ahead and the other side is in reverse. You can use inexpensive surplus motors since this craft will never win any speed trials in any case. You can't beat this dedign for stability and manouverability . My motors draw 3 a. at full power and turn 3 " plastic props .This combination moves my 20 lb GOFUR a a brisk walking pace The design does require 2 proportional control units. This is the main cost.
If you put a wire basket over the props your fishing line wouldn't foul and it might give some weed protection.. I think that a 3 lb. Black Bass could be handled nicely with this rig given some sort of springiness to maintain line tension in the line attachment method. It also would easily take a clip release so you could tow a lure and use a regular rod.
Good fishin
Dick Johnson
John Mianowski - 04 May 2004 15:53 GMT For something similar, but totally weedless, see:
http://www.jkmiller.net/ntxbg/pgDamageReport/pgRecoveryCraft.html
JM
>Gary: > [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] > >Dick Johnson Jerry Shaw - 11 Apr 2004 16:17 GMT >> Have you considered a sailboat? >> You would need two servos to handle the rudder and sails. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >I'm thinking of carving a block of foam and using a small motor and a 2 ch. >I was hoping to find something off the shelf cheap or used. Tom,
I think a hunk of foam would be the cheapest way of going. You could also make it in the shape you wanted. I would think a flat bottom with rounded sides would be the best, so it won't get caught in weeds. You may want to make some sort of metal wire cage around the prop also, so it doesn't get tangled in weeds either. A hunk of foam about 3 or 4 inches deep will hold a lot of weight and still have a shallow draft. You might also be able to hollow out a small tunnel for the prop and rudder to allow the hull to bottom out without the prop hitting the bottom. Be creative.
You should be able to get a propeller, shaft, motor and tubing at most hobby stores. Alternatively, you may be able to get a metal rod and some tubing at a hardware store at a lot less, and just the prop from the hobby store.
As another alternative, since you don't need speed, go to a discount toy store and buy a toy non-RC boat with the motor and prop installed. You could take the motor, shaft and prop out and use them that way. Or, you could even consider cutting a slot in the foam and gluing the boat into the slot, so you have a "barge." You could do this with a cheap toy RC boat too, so the extra foam would act as the extra buoyancy you need to carry your line. But you might want to check the range on any RC boat you use, as it might not be too far. In any case, you could probably replace it with your own radio, with just a forward, stop, reverse switch controlled by one of the servos.
Go to a toy store first and look around. See what you can make from the toy boats they have there. You'll save a lot of money in the long run. And, they almost all run on standard batteries, so you can always find replacements. And if you want to go with rechargeables, there are good standard sets of rechargeables with an AC/car charger for under $30.
Jerry
ARLINBENZ - 12 Apr 2008 03:27 GMT You asked a question that I've been interested in knowing about too Here's the perfect thing to use 'CLICK HERE (http://www.rcfishingworld.com/) its The "RC FISHING POLE" it fits o any RC Boat. Make sure and let us know how you do. :cool
-- ARLINBEN
tsunami - 11 Apr 2004 18:01 GMT use an old troling moter and built a basic hull with ply wood, it us normal baterys slow tons of torqe and if you look in the right place an old trolling moter is waiting at a garage sale. wings in thing hobbies has a boat that you could use for an example(sorry i dont hav the link
-- tsunam
Dr. Spiff - 11 Apr 2004 20:42 GMT Here is a pass at a Taguchi Boat:
Get one or more pieces of Styrofoam 16" x 30" and using poly urethane glue assemble a 4" to 6" thick plank. This is the hull and battery compartment. Hollow out the footprint for a 6 or 12 volt lawnmower battery dead center of the plank. It only needs to be a couple of inches deep to keep the battery from sliding around.
Get any 6 to 12 volt electric motor for motive power. Using 1/8" Plexiglas construct a motor mount. The easiest is a cradle to support the circumference of the motor. Then glue the motor in place in the motor mount. With the battery in the hull, float it to see where the waterline will be. My guess is that the draft will be less than 1".
Carve a tunnel on the centerline, from just aft of the battery to the stern, so that the tunnel is completely flooded. The motor mount will be glued to the Styrofoam just aft of the battery and the prop will end up 2" ~ 3" forward of the stern. Once you have these 2 points, you can build the prop shaft and keel. Take some more of the 1/8" Plexiglas and cut a triangular piece with the long side from the battery to the stern, the short side from the top of the foam to "as deep as it needs to be", but at least to the bottom of the foam. The hypotenuse will be line of the prop shaft.
This skeg will provide support for the prop shaft, a little bit of keel, and a place to hang the rudder. Slit the foam vertically along the centerline and insert the Plexiglas skeg. Don't glue it until you have created a prop shaft and rudder.
For the prop, make or get a "mild" prop. Something about 1" to 2" diameter is sufficient. Steal one from a toy boat if that is all you can find. The prop shaft should be sized to fit what ever prop you find. For the prop shaft, use a piece of K&B Brass Tubing 12" long from Hobby Lobby or wherever. The prop shaft only needs to be supported in 2 places, at the prop and the motor. Make and attach 2 bearings to the skeg. These bearings can be Plexiglas, brass tubing, or whatever. The coupling between the motor and the prop shaft will be a piece of flexible tubing. Places to check are places that sell aquariums, some of them have flexible air supply tubing; or try model airplane gas line. You only need 2" or 3" of the stuff.
Since you already made the prop shaft bearings out of something, make another set that will attach to the stern-end of the skeg. Fashion a rudder out of the same 1/8" Plexiglas and hang it on the end on the skeg. The mounting of the rudder servo and control arm should be straight forward.
One or more of these ideas ought to get you started.
Regards,
Rick
>It's getting to be spring and young men's thoughts turn to....FISHING!!! >Every year a bunch of us go to Canada and stalk the 50" Great Northern Pike. [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] >Want to sell me an old RC >boat? Tom Gardner - 12 Apr 2004 00:25 GMT I can "see" it. Thanks for the eloquent idea that's not going to chew-up much time or cash. So, will it get laughs...or fish?
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> Here is a pass at a Taguchi Boat: > [quoted text clipped - 69 lines] > >Want to sell me an old RC > >boat? John Doe - 10 May 2004 08:45 GMT I beleive thats illegal up here. Get caught and you'll lose more than your boat.You'll lose your Car, Boat, Tackle, License AND get a HUGE fine!! A Game Warden HAS the power to do that! People DONT realize that a Game Warden has MORE power in alot of areas than Policemen do!! BTW, I've got a Dumas Mr Darby 47" Tug that would pull a 50" Pike in with NO problem. LOL!!
Scott
> I can "see" it. Thanks for the eloquent idea that's not going to chew-up > much time or cash. So, will it get laughs...or fish? [quoted text clipped - 83 lines] > > >Want to sell me an old RC > > >boat?
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