I have a Miss Bud also.....
I have been having similar problems. Seems like the drive shaft just
doesn't fit quite right in the stuffing box. To take it out for the
first time to clean and lubricate I had to pull it out the front....you
know remove the engine/everything so I could pull it out. I cleaned it
all up and made sure it moved freely and lubed and reinstalled it.
Yesterday I took the boat out, set it into the water it putted around a
bit, brought it back in. Then I got start it again and it feels like
the engine is seized up, so I go home and loosen the set screw holding
the drive shaft to the engine....the engine is just fine, its the drive
shaft is siezed up in the stuffing box. I am going to give Pro-Boat a
call today, I am pretty disappointed by this piece of fine China right
now. When it does run properly it is a blast, but when it doesn't
run....
Mike
New to the RC boat thing.
--
moliver
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I just got one, took it out to the lake to break it in. This is my
second nitro powered RC, first being a Tmaxx with the .15 in it. I
burned up the Tmaxx after two gallons, used the Traxxas engine swap
program to get a new .15, and traded it for an Emaxx. Did not think I
would get another nitro after that, but the Miss Bud looked
awesome.....:rolleyes:
Anyway, I read an article on it, went ahead and installed a
auto-bailer, stainless steel water outlet, wrapped the RX in closed
cell neopreme, added a Bruline boot to the throttle linkage, yanked the
drive shaft and lubed it. Got a freshly charged glowplug ignitor,
packed a 1.5mm hex, 5.5mm socket, 4.5 socket, long thin flathead
screwdriver, extra props. MC59 glowplugs, gallon of 20% nitro (Byron
12% lubrication), plyers, put on swim trunks, and off I went!:p
Took me nearly a hour to get the thing to run for more than a few
seconds. I filled it up carefully, put in new batteries in the RX and
TX pack, sealed up the radio boxIt went like this:
Gave it three short pulls to try to prime it
Put on the glowplug ignitor wait a few seconds
Short pull to start, it would start, die (maybe 2 seconds of rich
burbling)
Next pull, ITS HYDROLOCKED
backoff the glowplug, short pull, start, tighten with ignitor, die,
maybe 2-3 seconds, same old same old
pull the glow plug, remove the fuel line from the carb, short pull, see
gas fly out of the head, yank, yank, finally don't see gas flying out
the head, reinstall fuel line, and glowplug
install ignitor, short pull, start,
die.................................
:rolleyes: :rolleyes: this went on for 30+ minutes, with finally
getting it to run until I pull the ignitor. Another 10 minutes of this,
finiseing the throttle, finally get it to run with about 1/2 throttle
without the ignitor, button it up, it dies. Repeat until I finally get
it to run but as soon as it hits the water, it dies. 5 minutes of this,
and I finally get it to run when it hits the water. I tool around at
full to 3/4 throttle, see water spitting out the side, and it is up on
plane. Not really fast, make maybe 10 right hand ovals, and bring it
in. First tank of gas, YOW, what a hassle. Check the temps, sitting at
110 degress, fill it up, glow ignitor on, short pull, starts, remove
ignitor, button it up, dies.:confused: Repeat at least 5 times,
finally get it to the side of the dock, give it a flat toss (holding it
by the cowling/cover, just kinda lock the elbow, let your arm swing in
a arc, ending about 6 inches off the water, right at the bottom of the
arc, let her go) she takes off, right up on plane. Tool around at full
to maybe 1/2 throttle, until the prop works loose. The exhaust provides
enough power to get her back to the dock, no swimming this time. Tighen
the inside set screw, start it back up, this time it keeps running
(temp is at 125 degrees at this point) button her up, flat toss, up on
step, complete the second tank full. Temp is still around 120-125
degress, fill her up, button her up, flat toss, she is up on step,
noticibly faster, spraying a roster tail, the water is no longer glass,
she is churning it up. Slaps over her own wake, looks pretty cool now:D
, she easily turns at full throttle, and full Dual Rates. Slow her
down, at the end of the run, try a few left hand turns, and start
heading for the dock. About 40 foot out, I let is go below 1/2
throttle, and she dies, another swim for me:o .
Fill her up for the 4th run, goe thru the entire tank without
incident!!!!!:D The temp is still around 125 degrees, lean out the
high jet 1/16th, start the 5th tank, she is noticeably faster. Near the
end of this tank, (which I would guess was less than 4 minutes) I get
into the shallows, and bottomed out the rudder. Bring her back in,
below 1/2 throttle she dies again, but the momemtum carries her within
reach. I have bent the rudder, which is quickly straighened back out. I
decide to call it quits for the day, hope to finish breaking her in
this weekend.
Bottom line, it was a major, messy hassle to get thru the first few
tanks, now it appears to be just messy!;)
I ordered an extra cowling, a VASA65 fits perfectly. Got a Mega16/5/3
brushless, I am going to try to EDF this baby!!!!;)
PS: Anybody know what the temp range is for the Dynamite15s???
Later
Jerry
PSPS: I am going to post this question as another thread, later.
--
jah - BALD MEMBER
Crashfree for the Last 48 hours!
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Divrdan007 - 13 Aug 2003 19:18 GMT
>Subject: Re: Pro Boat 1:12 Miss Budweiser
>From: jah jah.s3baw@rcgroups.com
>I just got one, took it out to the lake to break it in.
<snip>
>PS: Anybody know what the temp range is for the Dynamite15s???
After reading your story, I see you are having all the problems that are common
to breaking in an engine. Break-in settings are WAY rich, which is a good
thing. However breaking in at the lake is a real hassle because you gotta
retreive the boat every time she stalls.
That engine will not perform right, and will be hard to start and stall
regularly until it's FULLY broken in, and running at the proper settings.
125-130 degrees is way too cold for any nitro engine... she's just not getting
up to running temp for you.
Nitro engines run best somewhere between 240 to 290 degrees. BUT again, you are
just breaking it in, so running cool as still a good thing.
I broke in my marine (water-cooled) engine on the bench.
(I got this tip from an R/C boating magazine)... Attach a turkey baster to the
end of a garden hose... on the end of the turkey baster, attach some silicone
tubing, and then hook THAT up to your cooling head intake fitting. Worked
great.
That way, you can tune your carb as you go. The improtant thing to remember
when doing an engine break-in... is that you are "Heat Cycling" the engine. Run
the engine up to temp, stop, then rotate the engine till the piston is at
*botton-dead-center*, let cool... repeat.
You can usually "feel" when the engine is at BDC, but if you are unsure, remove
the glo plug, and look in there... rotate to BDC, then put a mark on your
flywheel so you can get there every time.
After about 5 or 6 tanks, you can start leaning out for performance. Until
that engine is broken in, and tuned properly... if you are running at the local
pond or lake, be prepared for lots of swimming. ;-)
If broken in and tuned properly, that Dynamite .12spd is a strong, reliable
engine, that should give you several gallons of trouble free running.
P.S. Engine break-in is really hard on glo-plugs. Once you got her broken in,
put a new plug in there for good measure.
(Whether you think it needs it or not)
Good Luck,
Hope that helps.