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Model Forum / Radio Controlled / Water Models / September 2003



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4 ft submarine

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Paul Davenport - 28 Sep 2003 22:56 GMT
Greetings,

I have just bought a submarine (second hand and quite old - obviously
scratch built) which purports to be of the static diving type.

There is a small motor operated compressor from which two tubes lead. One
goes to a solid plastic bottle in the bow and the other to a rubber balloon
just behind this. Both of them are outside the pressure hull. The compressor
appears to be functioning but, at least with pressure hull unsealed, nothing
appears to happen when the unit is run.

Can anyone explain how this system might work?

Paul
Jerry Shaw - 29 Sep 2003 02:49 GMT
>Greetings,
>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
>Can anyone explain how this system might work?

I've never seen that kind of submarine, but I'll take a guess at how it works.

Basically, you want to displace the water out of the submarine to make it
lighter. To do this, you need to pump air into the balloon, to inflate it,
driving the air out. If you had another balloon filled with air, one would
deflate and the other would inflate, ending up with no net gain in buoyancy.
But with a solid bottle, the air from inside the bottle can be pumped into the
balloon to inflate it, without the bottle collapsing from the partial vacuum.

For safety, you probably want to start out with the balloon inflated enough to
cause the sub to float to the surface, and maybe a little more than that.
Then, when you turn on the compressor, you pump the air into the bottle,
pressurizing the bottle but deflating the balloon. With less volume of air in
the sub, it will sink. When you reverse the compressor (or maybe just turn it
off), the pressurized air in the bottle will fill the balloon, driving out the
water and letting the sub rise to the surface again.

You need to trim the sub with weights so it just barely floats on an even keel
when the balloon is inflated. Then when it is deflated, the bow will angle
down, causing it to dive. You may have to keep the motor running and use
diving planes (if the sub has them), to get the stern under, and keep it
running on an even keel underwater, as with the flotation in the bow, the
stern will try to rise during diving.

Does anyone else have a better idea on how this would work?

>Paul

Jerry
Malcolm Cowie - 29 Sep 2003 04:41 GMT
Sounds like you have an old Darnell sub.
The bottle in the bow is probably made from fibreglass. The process is
start the sub in the water with the rubber bladder inflated( take one
hose off the compressor that leads to the bladder and blow )Start the
compresor sucking air out of the bladder and that is then pumped into
the bottle and stored.Now you dive.Reverse the compressor and it sucks
from the bottle  back into the bladder and you rise ! Voilla !!A
dynamic sub is one that ONLY uses forward speed and correct ballasting
to dive on the motors. Stop the motors and you rise again
Subs1
Paul Davenport - 29 Sep 2003 18:01 GMT
Dear Malcolm,

Yes, you are right, it is an old Darnell, or at least that is what is says
on the motors - and the bow mounted bottle is fibre glass - so much for it's
being scratch built!, . Well done! I have since been told by the previous
owner that it is based on  a British 'S' Class. It is in fact 5ft 10ins
long. As it stands is does has the capacity for stern hydroplane control,
but the servo has not been installed.

What you have advised makes perfect sense. Do you know if the 'standard'
motors were powered by 6 or 12 volt lead acid battery? I have tried a 6 volt
supply and all seems to run pretty slowly?

Thanks for your advice so far though

Paul Davenport

> Sounds like you have an old Darnell sub.
> The bottle in the bow is probably made from fibreglass. The process is
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> to dive on the motors. Stop the motors and you rise again
> Subs1
Malcolm Cowie - 30 Sep 2003 22:38 GMT
I had a Darnell type VII and the motors were 380's powered by a 6v
4amp Gell Cell and yes it was slow .What I did was take the separate
wires off each motor
and join the 2 wires off the motor inboard motor terminals together
and then do the same to the 2 outboard motor terminals.Attach the
joined wires to the power outlet wires from the speed controller.One
set of joined wires to one wire only .This means that EACH motor is
receiving 6v not 3v.Also if you are using plastic props , chuck em out
and use brass as you have much better control on them and you can
adjust the pitch more easily.Stopping also is a lot quicker ( VERY
important as you will find out
Email me if you want more help .
Malcolm  NZ
 
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