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Model Forum / General / Models / May 2007



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ThreadLast Post  Replies
The Dirtiest jobs in history21 May 2007 23:13 GMT8
Tony Robinson ran a series on the Dirtiest Jobs in History where he
supposedly performed some of these nasty jobs himself.
Well I reckon I've found another one for him ! Cleaning out the
soluble oil tanks on my J&S 1300 cylindrical Grinder and my J&S 540
Bottle jack to toe jack?21 May 2007 19:50 GMT6
Has anyone made a toe jack from a bottle jack? I've seem some versions
(as illustrated in the latest MEW) but I've never been too sure how
well they work.
Regards
Xx vs XJx21 May 2007 15:44 GMT7
Anyone seen the XJ12, XJ20 and XJ25 mills? How do they compare with the X2
and X3?
I'm particularly interested in their build quality and most important
accuracy. They are cheaper, but are they any good?
FS: eBay 25011767757521 May 2007 14:32 GMT15
Finally decided it has to go - no room at the Inn.
Steve
I am 'aving a fag!!!21 May 2007 09:37 GMT14
Have a look at the Cybermodeler front page.  You'll have to look today, 'cos
it changes every day.
http://www.cybermodeler.com/index.shtml
Am I imagining things, or is the bombardier smoking a cigarette?
Sealey Mill/Drill SM2521 May 2007 07:42 GMT3
Can anyone help with the instruction manual for the Sealey Mill/Drill SM25
Cope cost and postage will be paid Thanks
navaho drawings etc20 May 2007 18:19 GMT1
very reasonable prices, scott. they look really good, too.
nice to see someone who doesn't think modelers are made of
cash.
Another one for the brains trust - Light Machine Oil ?20 May 2007 15:32 GMT16
This old lathe I am restoring says to use 'light machine oil' for the
plain bearings (tapered phossy bronze on immaculate precision ground
alloy steel hardened spindle).
So what is Light Machine Oil - did it go the same way as the 'Light
Which Lathe (groan)20 May 2007 14:33 GMT69
Alright, it's been asked 1000's of times before but I'm trying my best to get
through the 'discovery' process of how to buy a lathe, without ending up buying
a dog. I've ruled out old British machines as the last 5 I've took the man that
knows to look at have been beyond end of ...
Electrical regs - the Government responds...20 May 2007 13:31 GMT25
Here's the response to the petition that was posted on the Downing St
website:
http://www.number-10.gov.uk/output/Page11727.asp
Not unexpected I guess...
Nice shiney finish.20 May 2007 10:50 GMT4
In order to make a tool to cut some pinions for the Hardinge apron gearbox,
I've had to get the grinder going that I got from work for £75+VAT.
I've freed up the gummed up valve blocks and hydraulic motor with the aid of a
rawhide hammer and some 1200 grit wet-and-dry paper. I've ...
Help with HArrogate Trader...20 May 2007 08:03 GMT5
I'm after a casting for a 9-10 inch flywheel casting for a single cylinder
mill engine.   One on the traders was going to look through his pattern
stock for me,  but I didn't note his name.  He did take my details,  but I
want to put in a call to check progress.
Which Inverter/Converter?20 May 2007 06:33 GMT5
I've recently aquired a Colchester Bantam 1600. I need to get 3 phas
inverter/converter to run the machine from domestic single-phas
electric.
I've seen both the "Teco" unit, as advertised here:
Grumman F3F fuselage color19 May 2007 16:14 GMT10
I am building the Accurate Miniatures F3F-2.  The instruction sheet
says the aluminum paint on the fuselage should be duller, a semi-mat
finish, while the silver doped wings are gloss.  Why would the
fuselage be a semi-mat rather than gloss?  I would think painting over
Silly putty and Tamiya Sray paint?19 May 2007 16:09 GMT2
I just tried my first silly putty masking.  I painted the first coat
of Olive Drab, then put on silly putty.  My lext layer was Tamiya Dark
Yellow.  I think this is a laquer based paint... I let dry then
started taking off the silly putty, which was now "melting" or at
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