Model Forum / General / Models / April 2010

Kit Review: Dragon Models Limited 1/35 Scale ‘39-‘45 Series Kit No.
6600;  Pz.Kpfw. VI Ausf. E. Sd.Kfz. 181 Tiger I Initial Production
s.Pz.Abt 502 Leningrad Region 1942/43 - 3-in-1 - Smart Kit; 532 parts
(410 in grey styrene, 85 etched brass, 18 “Magic Link” track links, 12

France?
Italy?
Africa?
All three?

When we moved here we 'inherited' a big spoil heap that was dumped in
the middle of an otherwise attractive orchard. It's perhaps 50 foot by
20 foot by 5 foot tall - obviously dumper truck loads tipped in
piles - a mixture of good soil and hardcore. It looks like a neolithic

Loking for a couple of 1" BSW bolts, 2" (probably a setscrew at that length) or
3" long. Need to be in good condition, bright turned preferred.
Anyone got anything available? cash + postage offered.
Peter

My coffee machine sprung a leak and on investigation I found the o ring on
top of the boiler (Krups thermoblock) had perished and I need to replace it.
There is a channel on top of the boiler with ID of 39mm and OD of 44mm. the
channel is 1.7mm deep. The boiler top plate is flat. ...

Heya folks!
Workin' on building a bunch of weapon systems
from the Korean 'Fratricidal War' (that's the name
for it over here in teh RoK) and I'm picking up the

Looking for two 1/4 x 20 tpi by 1-1/4" (or longer) countersunk allen
head screws/bolts - any suggestions?
(I think that's UNC? or maybe BSW? Are they interchangeable? I never got
the hang of that)

got a Mazda Tribute SUV thats 8 yrs old with 26, 500 miles. Original
tires.   Tread is still good.  Truck is in the San Francisco area.
Have been told that I should change them just because of their age.
Dry rot was mentioned.  Is this for real?

I want to drive a small machine at 120 rpm using a stepper motor.
I could run it direct or by a pully to give a reduction so that the
stepper motor runs faster.
Which will give the best torque to the machine from the motor? Looking

I need a source of 2.6mm steel rod - silver steel preferably, but mild
would do. Only needs to be 6 inches long at minimum.
Ideally I'd like a range of sizes around it ( ie 2.55 or an
imperial/wire gauge equivalent ).

Evening all,
Im rebuilding a spindle for a precision drill / sort of jig bore.
Its 'home made' from a SIP Inspection Microscope.
Pic here: http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn274/small_planes/17042010259.jpg

Advice needed.
I'm building the Revel 1/48th Apollo CSM kit. The halves didn't fit
quite right and I had to use some filler. Because I am ham-fisted at
sanding, I've removed some (raised) panel lines on the SM exterior.

It seems every time I see one at rest, the props are always in the 'plus
sign' position.  Is this natural or do the crews turn them that way?
Bill Banaszak, MFE Sr.

Now THIS link shows what could be one of several
awesome diorama subjects.
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/nation/2010/04/182_64641.html
I suppose you could use those Hasegawa female

I have previously bemoaned the fact that MAPP gas is no longer available
- the Canadian factory/refinery which produced it partially shut down -
but I'm in B+Q because I need some M10 studding in a hurry and Lo! and
Behold!,  and they have something called MAPGas in 400g ...